In a BAZAAR exclusive, Deputy Fashion News Editor Amy Yasmine speaks to British-Canadian designer Erdem Moralioğlu on his signature florals, childhood memories, and favourite pieces from his latest collaboration with H&M.
1. First thing’s first: how did this collaboration begin? Who approached who first, and what has this journey been like for you?
I was so thrilled and honoured to be asked to collaborate with H&M. It feels extraordinary to be joining the list of designers they’ve worked with in the past, and to be able to share what I do with such a wide group of people around the world. I’m so proud of the collection, and it feels a very democratic act to offer it on such a large scale.
2. When it comes to your aesthetic, the immediate response would to think of florals. What’s its appeal to you, and how do you think it resonates with your own personality?
My thinking with flowers has always been about the feminine. I’m fascinated by things that imply femininity, whether it is a fabric like lace, floral prints or a certain silhouette. I think it’s wonderful that a fabric or a cloth can confuse you, and that you can’t tell if it ‘s 50 years old or 100 years old or brand new.
3. How do you think your diverse heritage has shaped your current aesthetic, and especially so for this collection with H&M?
I think my heritage has fuelled my love of narrative and storytelling. Growing up in Canada, I would watch very English films with my mother, like Room With A View. It influenced my love of Englishness, that is such an important part of ERDEM X H&M. I was also very much influenced by memories of my childhood in Canada for the collection, and the pieces we wore as kids.
4. How would you set this collection apart from your own RTW line? Is there a slight difference (considering H&M’s Swedish clean, minimalist codes), or were you able to stay treat this collection like any other season?
The collection is pure ERDEM, with no compromise on the design. It was a pleasure to design this collection, and to look back at the work I’ve done over the past twelve years. It was great to look at designs, silhouettes of themes that I could reimagine and reappropriate for this collection, in a way that I never normally would for the catwalk.
5. A slip on sneaker makes an appearance in your collection – that’s quite a playful and youthful take on the Erdem woman. How does this inform the evolution this Erdem woman, and do you also take H&M’s diverse (and youthful) clientele into this development?
It was so fun to design pieces that were totally new to me, like the hoody, the backpack or the slip-on sneaker. I love the idea of someone wearing an incredible gown from the collection with a pair of sneakers, and matching it with a hoody or the fleece from the men’s collection. I want this collection to be a very open proposal, so people can absorb it into their wardrobes and wear it in their own way.
Discover some of the ERDEMxH&M pieces below: