Earlier this month in Shanghai, I had the opportunity to sit down with Dr. Annie Black, Lancôme’s International Scientific Director, during the highly anticipated launch of Lancôme’s new Génifique Ultimate Serum. The event, hosted at the Grand Oriental Sports Centre, drew an audience of over a thousand people, setting the perfect stage for the global debut of this innovative skincare product. Amid the buzz, Dr. Black took centre stage to introduce the advanced science behind Génifique Ultimate, highlighting its hero ingredient, Beta-Glucan-CM, and its exceptional skin-repairing power. Our conversation delved deeper into the brand’s research breakthroughs, the challenges of enhancing a beloved product, and how the new formula pushes the boundaries of anti-ageing and skin repair.

What motivated the inclusion of Beta-Glucan CM as the hero ingredient in the updated Génifique formula? 

AB: When we renovate a product like Génifique, it’s always a challenge. It’s been on the market for 15 years, and millions of people love this product. So, how do you improve it while maintaining what consumers love, especially its unique sensorial experience?Renovating a product like Génifique is always complicated, especially when people already love it for its sensuality and performance. The challenge was to enhance its efficacy without altering what made it so special. Consumers today are more aware of how the environment and lifestyle can impact their skin, from external aggressors like UV rays and pollution to internal stressors. So, the goal was to find ingredients that could really push skin repair forward. That’s how we discovered Beta-Glucans. Beta-Glucan is fascinating because it’s been studied for its role in wound healing, especially for burns and chronic wounds. It has great potential, and that’s why we became interested in it. We developed a specific version called Beta-Glucan CM, which we incorporated into the product for its exceptional repairing power.

How does the new formula differ from the previous version of Génifique in terms of efficacy and benefits?

AB: Génifique has always been strong in improving skin texture and radiance. With the new formula, we wanted to push its anti-aging benefits even further. We’ve run a specific test for skin regeneration, and this is the first time we’ve seen positive results for this. That means we’ve significantly improved its performance on signs of ageing, texture, redness, and fine lines. It’s suitable for all skin types as well.

Lancôme mentions a “repair switch” and the role of NRF2. Can you explain what that means and how it impacts skin repair?

AB: NRF2 is like a stress sensor for the skin. When activated, it triggers a cascade of cellular responses, boosting antioxidants, reducing inflammation, and accelerating skin renewal. It plays a central role in the skin’s repair processes. By activating NRF2 with Beta-Glucan, we enhance the skin’s natural repair power.

With 27 years of research behind this formula, what are the most significant scientific breakthroughs incorporated into the Génifique Ultimate?

AB: NRF2 is a key breakthrough, as it’s central to skin repair. There are many biological pathways involved, but NRF2 is crucial, which is why we call it the “repair switch.” Triggering it was challenging but essential. Our labs have done extensive research on repair and NRF2 as a biological target.

How does the new formula’s ability to repair one year of skin damage in one week compare to the original Génifique?

AB: We measured skin damage over a simulated one-year period and tested the formula’s efficacy in repairing those damages. The results showed that after just one week of using the product, you can repair the equivalent of one year’s worth of skin damage. These results are backed by in vitro, instrumental, and clinical tests.

How does the inclusion of biotechnology and green chemistry practices in Génifique align with Lancôme’s commitment to sustainability?

AB: Green sciences are critical for Génifique and the entire Lancôme brand. All the ingredients we select come from green sciences, including biotechnology. For example, many ingredients in Génifique are derived from yeast or bacteria through biotechnology, where these microorganisms act like little factories producing the molecules we need. 

Beta-Glucan is also derived from biotechnology. Additionally, we use green chemistry, which is about creating new molecules sustainably, without petrochemicals and with fewer chemical steps. This allows us to innovate while staying true to our sustainability commitments.

Does this also reduce the need for sourcing ingredients from nature?

AB: Exactly. It limits sourcing, but also ensures that any sourcing is done sustainably. For example, we practise sustainable agriculture at our Domaine de la Rose in France, where we grow roses and other plants without harming the soil, using organic farming methods. This is the first step in our green science processes.

What were the main challenges you faced during the R&D phase of this updated formula?

AB: One of the biggest challenges was improving the formula without changing what people love about it. Adding new ingredients sometimes alters the sensoriality, so a lot of work went into ensuring the formula felt familiar. Packaging was also a challenge because we wanted to make it refillable while keeping the iconic look of Génifique. It took about two and a half years to develop the refillable packaging, balancing size, weight, and sustainability.

Did making it refillable affect the formula’s stability?

AB: No, the packaging must maintain the formula’s stability and safety. That’s non-negotiable. We ensure that the packaging keeps the formula in the best condition possible before working on its sustainability.

I noticed the new formula feels a bit thicker—was that intentional?

AB: Yes, Beta-Glucan is a large molecule that absorbs a lot of water, which affects the texture slightly. We also received feedback from consumers who wanted a slightly richer formula, so we made it just a bit thicker, but not drastically different.

How does the new formula cater to different skin types, particularly sensitive skin?

AB: At Lancôme, 50% of our test panels always include people with sensitive skin. For this Génifique update, 100% of the participants had declared sensitive skin. The formula is safe for all skin types—normal, combination, oily, dry, sensitive, and acne-prone. We’ve also tested it on men, with very similar results.

Finally, how do you see the updated Génifique setting new standards for anti-ageing and repair serums in the industry?

AB: It’s all about performance. When people see and feel a difference, that’s what sets the gold standard. Génifique has always delivered, and we believe this new formula will continue to do so. We’re excited to see how consumers respond.

To learn more about the new Lancôme Génifique Ultimate serum and to shop, head over to their website lancome.com.my