Paris in the spring is always a delight, but this time, my excitement was doubled as I found myself back in the city where Diptyque was born for the exclusive preview of their new collection, Les Essences de Diptyque.
With beginnings as a textile and décor shop in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, created by three visionary artists: Christiane Gautrot, Desmond Knox-Leet, and Yves Coueslant, they’ve come to transcend and evolve Diptyque into one of the world’s most iconic fragrance brands. Their handcrafted candles, signature oval labels, and intricate designs have become synonymous with Parisian chic.
Their commitment to artistry and the natural world takes centre stage in Les Essences de Diptyque. The collection introduces five new fragrances, each inspired by rare and mysterious elements of nature—coral, mother of pearl, bark, water lily, and desert rose. Crafted by a selection of master perfumers, these fragrances interpret the essence of these natural wonders, translating their visual beauty into olfactory masterpieces.
Attending the press preview of Les Essences de Diptyque in Paris felt like stepping into a sensory wonderland. This new collection takes the Diptyque legacy forward. As the presentation unfolded, the creative minds behind these fragrances shared their journey of translating nature’s visual wonders into the scents they are today.
Coral Oscuro
Inspired by the vibrant red branches of coral beneath the Venetian Lagoon, Coral Oscuro evokes the interplay of light and shadow under the sea. Perfumer Alexandra Carlin imagined this scent as a floral-mineral blend, weaving together rose bourbon absolute with a warm, salty mineral accord. The addition of mandarin brings a crystalline brightness, perfectly capturing the fiery, underwater allure of coral.
For Coral Oscuro, Carlin drew inspiration from the concept of a “cabinet of curiosities”—a collection of rare and mysterious objects from nature. Coral itself is a natural wonder that has long puzzled observers. Once believed to be a mineral, and later a plant, it was ultimately discovered to be a living marine organism. This inherent mystery and transformation resonated deeply with Carlin, who sought to capture coral’s fiery red vibrancy and the saltiness of its underwater world. The scent, according to her, blooms like a coral garden with stony plants and glowing bushes. The perfume undulates between the light and depth of the sea, creating a contrast that mirrors the interaction between the surface and the ocean floor. Her goal was to evoke a sense of curiosity and wonder in the wearer, reflecting the intrigue of coral itself. By blending mineral and floral notes, Carlin created a scent that feels simultaneously vibrant and grounded, embodying the spirit of the sea’s hidden treasures.
Bois Corsé
Bois Corsé celebrates the rugged texture of tree bark and its protective role in nature. Nathalie Cetto and Olivier Pescheux created a deep, woody scent that blends tonka bean and sandalwood essence, rounded out with the bitterness of black coffee. “I felt guided and supported by my friend Olivier Pescheux (who passed away too soon), and who worked so often with the house and created some of Diptyque’s must-have masterpieces. I realised how lucky I am to be creating with this house of haute parfumerie, which I have always admired, and the challenge was to live up to the admiration I have for Diptyque,” mentioned Nathalie.
Cetto’s creative process for Bois Corsé focused on the duality of bark: its rough, coarse exterior versus the softness it protects within. She wanted to translate this contrast into scent by using raw, natural elements. The bark is not just rough but a symbol of protection, which she captured through the texture and sensoriality of the fragrance. This adds emotional depth to the woody, amber scent of Bois Corsé, making it more than just a fragrance but a reflection of nature’s strength and resilience.
Lunamaris
Lunamaris pays homage to the shimmering beauty of mother of pearl. Perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin sought to reflect the play of light on water with a blend of rockrose and pink peppercorn. Incense adds a mineral freshness, while amber warmth envelops the wearer.
“I wanted to interpret in a perfume the iridescent nuances of mother of pearl. The signature comprises a blend of raw materials selected to render this visual effect in olfactory terms. In this fragrance, each ingredient has its proper place, creating a radiant signature with silky subtleties. Pink peppercorn with its vibrant effects and spicy colours, the pure, resinous note of incense, and the amber warmth of rockrose.” Pellegrin described the scent as radiant and silky, capturing the ethereal elegance of this natural treasure.
Lilyphéa
Taking inspiration from Claude Monet’s water lilies, Lilyphéa captures the delicate beauty of these floating flowers. The fragrance blends cardamom and violet leaf for a lively green freshness, while Madagascan vanilla adds a soft, warm base.
Nathalie Cetto’s second fragrance for the Les Essences de Diptyque collection, she designed this scent to mirror the duality of the water lily—both crisp and smooth, vibrant yet calming. “What I’ve long observed about water lilies is that thick, smooth, floating, fleshy, almost soft green leaf. So graceful that it seems almost comfortable, contrasted by the bright, invigorating and very fresh green that inspired my creative approach.”
Rose Roche
Fabrice Pellegrin’s Rose Roche is his second creation of the collection and represents his own ode to the desert rose, a natural crystal formation shaped by the wind. This fragrance combines centifolia rose with bright notes of lemon, underpinned by the earthy depth of patchouli.
“This creation was inspired by the winds that shape the desert sands with surprising precision over the course of time. My aim was to evoke the elemental heat of the desert winds through a perfume crafted to recall the warm, mineral feel of grains of sand. I sculpted this floral rose fragrance entirely out of contrast between the bright, luminous qualities of citrus fruits and the deep, textured notes of patchouli.”
For more information on the new Les Essences de Diptyque and to shop the new collection, head on over to kensapothecary.com.my , or pay a visit to their in-store locations at either Pavilion KL, The Exchange TRX, Midvalley Megamall and Pavilion Damansara Heights.
