Slicked-back hair continues to reign both on TikTok and the runways.
For Peter Do’s debut collection for Helmut Lang, hairstylist Jawara Wauchope worked with Do to bring the style of downtown New York to the runway. “Peter wanted it to not look so put-together, so the inspiration was greasy hair that hadn’t been washed in a few days,” he tells Bazaar. “I came here today on the subway and was sweating, so that whole element of sweaty hair and running around the city is what we were going for.” To create the illusion of three-day-old hair, Wauchope used the Bumble and Bumble Hairdresser Invisible Oil Primer–but not in the typically way. “Usually, you put a little in and then blow dry your hair, but we put loads in the hair to make the it heavy and then locked in the oil with the Dyson Corrale Hair Straightener.”
In the accessories department, Wauchope combined ’90s Helmut Lang with the current collection by cutting extra fabric from Do’s designs to create ribbons and headbands and by bringing back the ’90s comb bands.
Comb headbands were also seen at the Maryling show.
Hairstylist Matthew Curtis brought vintage glamour to the Alice and Olivia Spring/Summer 2024 show, which was designer Stacey Bendet’s take on Truman Capote’s 1996 Black and White Ball. “Since the show was inspired by the swans of the Ball, we wanted to take the glamour of the ’50s and ’60s but give it a modern twist,” Curtis tells Bazaar. From low ponytails to rope-braid buns, the models’ hairstyles were accessorized with dainty crystals and pearls.
At Tory Burch, hair was slicked back and secured low along the nape of the neck with a show-stopping beaded accessory.
At The Blonds, colorful rhinestones adorned the center hair part for some models.
At Susan Fang, beaded and floral headbands looked beautiful.
At Sara Wong, some models walked with a single feather adorning their hair.
Headbands were big at Erdem too, done in metallic and embellished with tiny pearls.
“We wanted to make sure it looked like the model could do this hair on herself,” says Wauchope, who was also the lead hairstylist for Altuzarra. Instead of a simple low pony, Wauchope twisted the ends of each ponytail into a knot for an elevated look. As a juxtaposition to the loose style, each model had a clean center part and a few face framing pieces in the front. To achieve that undone look, he used Fekkai Full Blown Volume Dry Texture Spray all over.
Bibhu Mohapatra’s spring show also saw curls tied up in interesting ways, like with this twisted low updo.
The LaQuan Smith Spring/Summer 2004 runway featured shiny, straight locks, mirroring the iridescent, jewel-toned collection with crisp tailoring.
A sleek low bun the look at Richard Quinn in London.
At Burberry’s spring show, sleek, shiny hair and glossy black lips looked like the perfect pairing.
Dainty hair bows are in full effect next season. Redway incorporated a pink ribbon into models’ braided hair to reflect the softness of the collection and tulle, which lent itself to the balletcore theme. The good news: you don’t need to buy a new accessory: repurpose ribbons from gifts and wrap around a ponytail, weave throughout a braid, or wear in place of a headband.
The Wet Look
Drenched hair was all over the runways again this season, from Eckhaus Latta to Jason Wu (shown here). Depending on how it’s styled and what products you use, wet hair can lean more grungy, with messy, curly pieces, or beachy with soft, controlled waves like at Wu’s show.
The Wet Look
Hair also looked wet at Feben’s spring show.
The Wet Look
Masha Popova’s spring show also featured wet-looking curls.
This story first appeared on harpersbazaar.com