Consider Riccardo Tisci a master decoder. With his re-invention of Thomas Burberry’s iconic monogram, the Italian creative director imbues modernity and sensuality into the English heritage label’s accessories this Pre-Fall ’19 season.
The house codes of Burberry have been under siege since Riccardo Tisci presented his debut runway collection for Spring/Summer ’19, introducing a modern approach to the house’s traditional take on emblematic insignia. Now, a season and a half later, the chief creative officer works his magic again with his latest Pre-Fall ’19 offerings. While staying true to Burberry’s colour palette of beige, red, black, and white, Tisci has unleashed a surge of youthful yet timeless influences into his contemporary vision for the British brand. With a talent for breaking—and building—house codes, he heralds a fortified future for the house, all while staying true to its heritage and legacy.
THE CONSCIOUS COLLECTIVE
“I wanted this collection to be a continuation of the story I began to tell in September with my debut Burberry collection,” said Tisci. “I’m focusing on establishing our codes through archive prints, house colours, and iconic outerwear, while cementing the new themes I set out last season including the Thomas Burberry Monogram, eveningwear, and tailoring.” Designed by British graphic designer Peter Saville, the TB monogram debuted last season on classic jackets, breezy tees and pussy-bow blouses with a DIY-twist. If anything, the distinctive Sloane Ranger comes to mind.
For his second collection, Tisci focused on consolidating the pre-season offerings with the same message he touted during his debut show—generational inclusivity—by not straying far from classic Burberry fixtures. Throughout his collections, Tisci amped up the gloss and glam with variations on the trench coat and car coat, along with striking innovations, such as the softly padded logo-printed silk satin puffer capes, that showcase his mission to transform the brand into one suited for both mother and daughter.
If this collection has proved anything, it’s that Tisci remains the reigning king of It bags. Autumnal iterations of the now-emblematic TB bag, prove to be the real undisputed gems of this line-up. First introduced on Burberry’s Spring/Summer ’19 runway, the TB bag continues to pay homage to the house’s founder Thomas Burberry, with one of Tisci’s new signature house codes for the house—the interlocking TB initials—as it appears in a variety of tonal shades of Burberry beige and brown, and a full-force TB Monogram in printed leather. That said, there’s no doubt the secret to the TB bag’s growing appeal is its versatility; it’s effortless as a belt bag, an envelope clutch, or a cross-body with a detachable chain or leather strap.
Still, the ultimate pièce de résistance this time around is the newly launched Title bag. Perfect for its autumnal debut, the new leather tote marks the latest addition to Burberry’s range of signature bags. Modern elegance with a contemporary edge makes the Title a classic with its minimalist triple-studded grace. Here, Tisci’s vision for the brand reverberates through Burberry’s Pre-Fall ’19 collection, evoking classic influences through a more youthful yet timeless lens, and building on new traditions.