Collection Report: Spring/Summer ’20—Spark The World’s Crucial Dialogues

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“MENTAL HEALTH IS NOT FASHION”

Gucci

Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, ushered in a brand-new era with a collection steeped in retro-futurism for Spring/Summer ’20. The inspiration behind the collection came from the idea of subjectification. For the first part of the show, Michele sent down models on travelators in a variation of ivory white uniforms (complete with straitjackets)—with the show statement on Look 99 complete with a handwritten note “Mental Health Is Not Fashion.” Breaking up the initially all-white collection, the sound of lightbulbs blowing soon echoed through the space before the “Crash Land (Bijou Remix)” by Dancing Astronaut played overhead, as did Madonna’s hit single “Justify My Love”, and with it welcoming Gucci design favourites including wide-lapel suits, corduroy, Cuban-heeled boots, platform shoes, BDSM leathers, as well as standout sequined evening gowns and column dresses. A collection which proved that Michele was able to pare back, without losing his Midas touch.

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