Louis Vuitton X Murakami: Celebrating 20 years of the most iconic fashion collaboration.
By Zue Wei Leong
When Louis Vuitton x Murakami first debuted on the Spring/Summer 2003 runway, there was an irrevocable shift in the relationship between fashion and art. “At the time of its release, the contemporary art scene in New York was very conservative, and I think the fusing of art and fashion was not so widely accepted,” says Takashi Murakami. He was tapped by creative director, Marc Jacobs, for his unique viewpoint, blending traditional Japanese art, sci-fi, and kawaii characters.
It was the birth of the age of the fashion collab as we know it—and the beginning of an iconic pop culture movement. From exclusive designs on bags and accessories to sold out museum exhibitions, the world could not get enough of Louis Vuitton’s partnership with the renowned Japanese artist.
In 2025, Louis Vuitton unveils a twentieth anniversary re-edition of the original, trailblazing collaboration. Murakami’s beloved motifs and characters appear on more than 170 Louis Vuitton offerings, from leather goods and footwear to fragrances and lifestyle items, such as skateboards.
One of the most anticipated returning motifs is the iconic Monogram Multicolore, which characterised the aesthetic of the 2000s, especially on the Speedy bag—bold, joyful, and unwittingly iconoclastic. It was the first time in history that the Louis Vuitton monogram was ever reworked. “Looking back now, I really feel there were various significances, but at the time I had no idea what kind of brand Louis Vuitton really was, and I didn’t understand the impact of it changing the products’ classic base color to pure white, for instance. But now, I can see that it changing from something purely chic into something colourful really made a big impact,” says Murakami.
In this new reimagining, the Monogram Multicolore is rendered in 33 different colours and applied using cutting-edge digital printing on a range of products, including the Dauphine Soft, OnTheGo, and a made-to-order Malle Wardrobe containing 33 Speedy bags. “I always use cutting edge technology of some sort so that an idea born in my head can be output in the shortest possible time, and I use new tools and software from time to time,” explains Murakami, noting that he had the same mindset in the early 2000s when choosing to use high-powered computers in his process. As a result, collectors will be treated to an extensive line of accessories, including silk squares, scarves, sunglasses and jewellery.
The Louis Vuitton x Murakami universe is also expanding with the revival of Superflat Panda. “When Marc (Jacobs, former creative director) first requested for my work, he told me, “I don’t need any characters. I just want for you to change the emblem.” But midway through, Marc himself drew a sketch, and he copied a panda that appeared in my work and sent it to me. That’s how my own characters emerged inside of Louis Vuitton, which is why these iconic characters are being revived this time,” shares Murakami.
Influenced by manga and anime, the Superflat Panda is an adorably round character, affixed in its kaleidoscopic glory on the washed blue OnTheGo PM Chain and Alba BB bags and Attape-Rêves and Imagination fragrance bottles. Fitting for the origins of the Superflat movement, which began as an exploration of Westernised Japanese culture, this character appears on Louis Vuitton’s beloved travel essentials, including the Keepall 45, the Mini Square Trunk, as well as the Couv Passeport in classic Monogram. Naturally, the Superflat Panda will be joined by the ever-smiling flowers of the Superflat Garden, planted on an extended assortment of Capucines bags, as well as the beloved Cherry Blossom motif on Papillon bags and the Courrier Lozine 110 Fleurs trunk.
“Last time when I made the animation of the panda, I thought about the future, which, well, is basically now,” muses Murakami. “From 20 years ago, I was thinking about what it would be like now, and tried to convey a message to the children in the hopes that they’d love my collaboration. I hope that these cute characters will be passed on to the children this time as well, and that they’ll still be cherished 20 or 30 years from now.”
The longevity of Louis Vuitton x Murakami, and its return to the public consciousness, always comes back to youth culture. Takashi Murakami’s entire ethos has been about pushing boundaries, whether it’s mixing high and low art or combining cultures. Just as the young stars of Hollywood, including Lindsay Lohan, Paris Hilton and Jessica Simpson, embraced the collaboration, a new generation of artists is eager to experience the same level of creativity and originality—now on their terms. “The people on the receiving end, especially the hip hop artists, who continue to love my collaboration with Louis Vuitton, and that made it a very good timing to refresh it,” says Murakami.
He adds: “I’m always thinking from a universal perspective—about how my work will live on even after I die. I think that’s why it’s had a long life span.”
Louis Vuitton x Murakami is a cultural milestone with a huge impact on the fashion and arts scene in just twenty years. And the French luxury brand’s celebratory re-edition is an exciting reminder on how far Louis Vuitton and the industry has come in the last two decades.
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All images courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
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