Two boundary-pushing designers from different generations came together for a heartfelt conversation, delving into the challenges that arise when attempting to defy conventional narratives.
SHOT ON LOCATION AT MOTOGUO’S STUDIO. PHOTOGRAPHY BY LILY ALLISSA. TEXT BY AININA HASNUL.
Blending in is easy. The real challenge lies in standing out. While it distinguishes you from the crowd, it also brings its fair share of challenges. Doubt often creeps in, questioning whether it’s truly worth it. Avant-garde fashion serves as a form of self-expression, making a statement to challenge the status quo. Yet, not many possess the courage to speak its language. However, in Motoguo’s vibrant studio, it’s the lingua franca.
“We call this space Motoguo Mission Control, because it looks like a spaceship,” describe the founders of Motoguo—Moto Guo, Kinder Eng and Jay Perry Ang. Their unique and quirky space serves as a studio, office and store, adorned with their collections of whimsical artworks and collection pieces. When I first approached Melinda Looi for the interview, she was thrilled to be paired with the eponymous label. And there she sat, in Mell by Melinda Looi, across from the founders of Motoguo, dressed in their own designs, ready for our exchange.
MELINDA LOOI
With 24 years in the industry, Melinda epitomises boldness. It isn’t just evident in her designs, but also in her charisma and tenacity. Growing up in a pleating factory, assisting her mother’s business, Melinda honed her skills in fashion design early in life. In 2000, Mell by Melinda Looi was founded, catering to the avant-garde in all of us. Today, the multi-award-winning fashion designer has solidified her presence internationally. Despite her longstanding position in the fashion industry, Melinda believes learning from the younger generation is vital for growth. “That’s why I hire the younger generations. I want to see how I can push them and how we can learn together.”
MOTOGUO
Sharing a similar playful approach to design, Moto, Kinder, and Jay entered the fashion landscape 15 years after Melinda. Founded in 2015, Motoguo initially ventured into menswear before embracing more gender-fluid silhouettes to challenge peculiarity in the most playful manner possible. In many ways, they all share the same passion and sentiment towards their artworks, finding parallels throughout the conversation.
BAZAAR is thrilled to share this heartfelt dialogue, delving into the challenges that arise when attempting to defy the existing narratives of fashion conventions.
In Conversation with Melinda Looi & Motoguo
Jay Perry Ang (JPA): What inspired you to approach your design as you did, from then until now? Did you stick to your design aesthetic throughout your journey as a fashion designer?
Melinda Looi (ML): What kept me inspired was the passion, perseverance and determination. Those are my main ingredients. To be honest, over 24 years, I started off very dramatic, and I still am. But as time passed, I realised I have to pay bills. This led me to venture into ready-to-wear collections because I wanted my team to be well-compensated.
There comes a point where you may need to do things that you don’t entirely enjoy, but they become your bread and butter. I still do artistic work, which I find more fulfilling. Each creation is a masterpiece, even if some remains unsold. Sometimes you simply don’t have a choice.
JPA: Following up on that question, do you think what you’re doing now for Mell by Melinda Looi, commercially versus artistically, fulfils your soul? Do you believe you’ve mastered balancing these two aspects?
ML: I find joy in everything I do now, even in commercial collections. Both aspects bring me joy. Parting ways with my business partner has a lot to do with it. For a long time, I was not the Melinda Looi that I and others knew. However, I still feel blessed. I have an amazing team who have been with me since day one. My first staff from 24 years ago is still with me until today, along with most of the production team. I believe it’s because I treat them like family, which is very important to me. Unless there are irreparable issues, they may leave, but that’s quite normal, especially for the younger generation.
Moto Guo (MG): Do you find it challenging to keep up with the mentality of the younger generation?
ML: I am quite open-minded. I like to learn. I tell my younger team members that I’m paying them to learn together, not just because they have a job to do. I’m always open to new ideas. It’s very important, especially in fashion, to have younger blood around. Everything is changing so fast, and we have to try to adapt to their mindset as well.
At one point, people say that I am a very provocative designer. I used to have really provocative collections, with chiffons, see-through materials or just two nipple tapes. Then, I started to be invited to like international shows, but for modest fashion. That’s where I adapt. I still have my own quirky elements, but I have to address it modestly.
It’s like being a survivor in the industry. If you want to survive in the street, you have to adapt. Sometimes you don’t have a choice, unless you have the luxuries of doing whatever you want. Hence, that part of me cannot be as provocative anymore. Adapt accordingly.
ML: Nine years in the industry, and you guys have already made a name for yourself internationally. What do you think sets you apart and makes you stand out?
Kinder Eng (KE): I think apart from hard work, Moto also started off very lucky. He collaborated with a photographer, and the exposure started from there.
MG: That’s how it began—Zhong Lin shot for my graduation collection and another editorial I did. We uploaded it to a Spanish menswear magazine called “Fucking Young”, which gave us a lot of exposure. We received some orders immediately within two to four hours from the UK and Japan.
That was when I realised that maybe crazy things do have commercial value. A while later, I met Jay through a mutual friend. We launched in 2015 and participated in KL Fashion Week for the first two seasons. During that time, we met a Japanese blogger who was doing a global talent scouting for the LVMH group, and he submitted Motoguo among two others as a recommendation. That opened a lot of doors for us.
JPA: Indeed, Motoguo being shortlisted for the LVMH Prize for young fashion designers made a lot of people in the industry recognise us. We consistently participated in shows. We did Paris, Milan, and Tokyo. Right after, we were spotted by Giorgio Armani for an exclusive showcase. After that, we started venturing into China. It was up and coming during Shanghai, so I think in a lot of instances, we knew it was kind of a peak for us.
ML: A lot of artistic pieces don’t sell as well as we’d like. I face the same pressure with my couture, high-end, crazy designs. Do you feel this pressure and how do you handle it?
KE: Design-wise, I actually enjoy commercial pieces. I like seeing people wear them and really connect with the story behind. I’m a sentimental person, so that connection means a lot to me. For more artistic showpieces, those mostly come from Moto.
We put a lot of effort into creating showpieces, but often, the last-minute, less elaborate designs end up selling the most. We’ve had this argument for many years, but we came up with a solution: we must do the artistic pieces and also create some commercial ones. That way, we can balance both.
JPA: They feel like they can push the boundaries more for Motoguo, but the market holds them back. When they have the opportunity to do shows, they go all out. If it’s just a showroom for sales, they strike a balance, maybe 30-70 or 70-30 between artistic and commercial pieces.
MG: Do you experience any identity crisis? Sometimes, I don’t always know if I’m crazy enough in my designs. I think it’s because I take in too many opinions.
ML: I sometimes question myself too. In 2022, I did my first Mell by Melinda Looi solo couture show in Malaysia. It was more of a family affair. My dad was dying from cancer at the time, and I wanted to do a show to share with him before he passed away. The show was dedicated to him and our family background in pleating. I wanted to go crazier, but I knew if I went too far, people might misunderstand the message.
MG: How do you avoid falling into self-doubt? Do you pick yourself up when you feel down?
ML: I think designers, like all artists, tend to be very sentimental and can easily fall into depression. I lost my self-confidence for many years, but my children and my team helped me push myself back up. I remind myself that I have amazing people around me who are my pillars, and I need to stay positive.
When the press asks about the obstacles I’ve faced and what has been the most difficult, I always tell them that nothing is easy, but nothing is too difficult for me. I believe I can do it, and I will do it, even though it’s challenging. The more challenges I face, the stronger I become.
MG: Do you care about what people say about you or your designs?
ML: People always talk, and it’s good to have people talking, whether it’s good or bad. No PR is bad PR, right? On the business side, I was advised to be sensitive to comments. I was even criticised for the way I speak English. It’s difficult being micro-managed by someone who is constantly over-sensitive. That’s why having supportive people on your team is important.
I don’t think we need to restrict ourselves with too many rules and regulations. But it’s okay to have comments. You learn from them. Because of that criticism, I hired an English teacher who helped me with international interviews.
ML: Working with partners is never easy. I failed in that part… How did you manage your partnership?
MG: We’ve spent the last nine years managing it, haha.
JPA: By the way, both of them (Moto and Kinder) are a couple.
MG: We fight a lot about creative direction. Kinder is a dreamer, he enjoys having a story behind each piece, even in the commercial line. Recently, though, buyers have unfortunately told us not to tell stories anymore because apparently people don’t care about it, and it slows down the production. That’s why we’re trying a different approach now.
ML: When you fight, what happens? How do you resolve it?
MG: Normally when we fight, Jay acts as the mediator.
KE: He doesn’t stop us; he allows us to argue.
MG: We’ve been learning how to manage expectations. The three of us are so different, but we have to achieve the same goal. So we have to learn how to respect each other.
JPA: Previously, it was one fashion week after another, and production after production. When the MCO (Movement Control Order) hit us, we finally had the time to communicate. I usually let them do what they want. I only say stop if there are limitations, but I don’t hold them back in terms of creativity.
MG: Sometimes we mix personal and work emotions. One thing I’ve learned over the years is to manage expectations. We might have different visions for a product, so we need to find a middle ground. We have to agree to disagree.
ML: How do you see yourself and your brand in the next 10 years?
Moto: Be happy and keep learning. Because I’m not happy most of the time.
ML: I was like you, but luckily, I have my loved ones around. They’re my pillars. It’s important to have that support. It’s all mental and spiritual, and it’s crucial to help yourself get back up.
ML: From your experience, do you think it’s better to have a 10-year or long-term goal, or a short-term goal?
ML: When the press asks me this question, I tell them I can’t give a definitive answer. But my answer is I will keep fighting, challenging myself, and striving to do better and better. I don’t set specific goals anymore. Yes, have a goal, but don’t set a strict time frame. Keep fighting to achieve it. I think that’s the most important part, right?
KE: We used to build our team with the goal of making this family stronger. But in the end, reality set in and people left. That hurt me a lot.
MG: He’s wondering if this family culture still works.
ML: You’re sentimental, and I’m like that too. When team members leave, I feel depressed for long periods of time. But if someone wants to leave, I will not try to make them stay. I believe everyone has their own dreams and goals. Sometimes their direction changes, especially after the pandemic when people have different mentalities and priorities.
It’s okay, but do talk about it. There’s nothing wrong with treating your team as family because you want to build a bond. But it’s also okay if you can’t keep them. When you treat people well, they will appreciate and remember it.
KE: But the point is, I’m afraid I won’t be able to trust people again.
ML: I used to be like that. But now, I can openly talk to my staff. I’m very direct with them about how I feel. I let them try, fail, and make mistakes. It might be hurtful, but you are telling your truth and giving them a chance. Perhaps they have different goals in life or want to grow. Thinking that way might help you feel better.
What are certain elements that you don’t necessarily plan but manifest subconsciously in your designs?
ML: My experiences have led me back to what I used to love doing. I’ve found a balance and can truly be myself. I’m not under as much pressure anymore. I feel a lot lighter, even though I still have a lot of stress.
KE: I think our past experiences affect us the most. Everything we’ve gone through influences our designs effortlessly.
JPA: Yes, it’s our philosophy. We tell stories from our past experiences. Subconsciously, whatever we experience comes through in our artwork and designs. Each of Motoguo collections is connected to a story, and interconnected to one another, forming a continuous narrative throughout the seasons.
MG: I think the items that don’t sell are often the most personal ones. They don’t resonate with buyers because they are too personal.
KE: That’s why T-shirts sell, because they’re very direct.
Any last words?
ML: I’m planning a show at the end of this year. Again, it’s a lot to do with charity work to raise funds for the children that I support.
MG: You can come visit us for private shopping here. We call this space our Mission Control because it looks like a spaceship. Make your appointment and come visit us.
Dive into our past designers’ interview here.
