Designers are finding new ways to make the reliable accessory feel new. But how do you style a sock with no heel—or toe?

By Michella Oré

Socks are usually not a particularly controversial item of clothing. But when Miu Miu sent an open-toe version down the spring 2025 runway, followed by another pair that appeared to be missing both heel and toe, that all changed. Suddenly, our very notion of what constitutes a sock was turned on its head.

Exactly how much of your foot does a sock have to cover to count as a sock?” Where does one draw the line between a sock and leg warmer, or, frankly, just a piece of cloth? “The Miu Miu legwear felt like a new hybrid of leg warmer, sock, and legging—a familiar concept refreshed with quirky styling,” says Linda Cui Zhang, associate fashion director at Nordstrom. Maybe the answer is simply that you don’t have to make a distinction anymore.

If this year has taught us anything so far, it’s that fashion is finished with quietly playing it safe. Sensational peep-toe heels are as back, as are thong sandals and candy-colored jelly slides. Prints like polka dots and stripes, as well as clothes that makes a literal (written) statement, are subbing in for solid colored T-shirts and button-ups. And just as ready-to-wear is experiencing a pivot into wildly fun territories, so are our tried-and-true, and often very tame, accessories.

“We’ve seen knit accessories gain momentum and add depth and a sporty personality to fashion,” says Zhang. “The ‘warm-up’ knit category spans a wide range—from headbands to collars to belts. Inventive hosiery and sock styling is on the rise, and I’m excited to play around with the idea now and layer into the cooler months.”

And that’s how compression socks became en vogue. Those who like the DIY-nature of this playful trend will be drawn to the style possibilities. And while there’s still time to pick up a pair of Miu Miu’s charcoal grey knee-highs or the Hi-Lighter bright 3-pack before they’re gone, you can also easily recreate the look on a pair of normy socks at home, says Zhang: “It’s an approachable way to experiment—cutting up tights or repurposing knee socks—to test the trend without committing to purchasing the specific piece.”

As for styling the trend, it’s best to let the socks take center stage. Zhang says she’s planning to take notes from Miu Miu, pairing her not-a-sock socks with an open-toe sandal or slingback heels. “Layering artful knits—like a tank over a tee—and finishing with a swishy skirt would complete the look.” Socks might have once been the least interesting pieces in our wardrobe, but today they’re shaking fashion up, five bare toes at a time.

This story first appeared on harpersbazaar.com