Chanel’s front-row habitués at the Métiers d’art Paris Hamburg 2017/18 show recall their own memories of Hamburg, reveal their connection to the port city, and poeticise Karl Lagerfeld’s homecoming opus at the Elbphilharmonie concert hall.
“The port of Hamburg conjures up visions of chapped cheeks, roll neck jerseys, brown shrimps, eel by the meter, saucy dives and old friends as I have visited the city many times over the years. However it was my first visit to the Elbphilharmonie. There is something physiological about this space as entering it is something I might imagine like journeying into an eardrum via various labyrinths. The auditorium itself is like the heart of a bee-hive, built out of honeycomb, massive and monolithic from the outside and neat and nimble and supersonically modern within. It has an undeniable significance for Hamburg as materializing a sort of renewed international gateway for the city and has provided Karl with the perfectly aligned gesture. This is the happiest sort of return: the passing back through a familiar and beloved territory towards a new horizon, with power and heart. This collection walked itself through the Elbphilarmonie last night, swinging and easy and sassy and grounded, with wit and weight, devoid of pretension or apology. I loved every jersey, every coat, the leg warmers, the rust red tweed, the double fronted trews, the exquisite tuxedos, each piece so balanced and precious and sound. Pure Chanel: Karl Lagerfeld in his prime, at his strongest and most relaxed: A triumph.”