For the Gucci Spring/Summer ’25 collection, creative director Sabato De Sarno is asking us to seize the moment. “A precise moment in time. A moment to seize and live to the fullest,” he says in the press notes. “It’s the moment the sun dives into the sea at the end of an August day. It’s the moment we find ourselves. This collection is a tribute to those moments, and an invitation to stop, seek your own moment.” 

Gucci creative director, Sabato De Sarno

Much like with its previous men’s show, Gucci returns to the Triennale to present its women’s Spring/Summer ’25 collection. For Sabato De Sarno finds a kinship with the museum, its role as cultural guardian echoing Gucci’s own values.

THE COLOUR STORY

Thus, the newly minted Cuore archive is now transformed into an expansive corridor of colour. The gradient journey unfolds through a sunset spectrum of clean white to yellow, orange then finally Gucci’s signature Rosso Ancora. Since each room is bathed in a different hue, the parading clothes seem to take us on a journey. With each space they pass, a new moment is created, a new perspective is viewed.

The Gucci Spring/Summer ’25 gradient show space at the Triennale, Milan.

Undoubtedly, colour has always been De Sarno’s strong calling card. Here, the palette of the collection mirrors its venue, starting with grey, black, white, tones of green, yellow, orange and then Gucci Rosso Ancora. 

De Sarno’s nods to ’60s mod.

CASUAL GRANDEUR

Casual, but still impeccably chic.

As for its vibe, De Sarno calls the collection “Casual Grandeur”, and here the phrase appears to work both ways. The first is to up the style quotient of a casual ensemble. This is immediately illustrated in Look 2, comprising of a red-trimmed white tank top with grey trousers and sneakers combo. Driving gloves, bamboo-shaped arm bracelet and the new Gucci 73 bucket bag—with massive Gucci Horsebit on its side—elevate the look. Elsewhere, a tank top and jeans combo is draped with a sweeping monogrammed coat (in beige, yellow or the luscious Rosso Ancora). Even an otherwise plain but sharply tailored coat gets glammed up with cascading fringes, paired with liquid leather heels.

A callback to the Gucci ’90s jersey dresses, and a fun take on fringes.

Then on the flip side, when one decides to go dressy—or grand—formality is disrupted with something more casual. So we see fluid dresses forgoing towering pumps for flat-footed leather boots, with or without floral bandanas covering the hair. A two-piece leather ensemble perfect for evening features a sliver of a leather belt that mimics the ease of drawstrings. In fact, ease and comfort define the collection. These are clothes and accessories that you can slip into nonchalantly, yet still be guaranteed to look chic and impeccable.

Even at its most formal, the collection breathes an air of easy comfort.

KEY SIGNATURES

Delicate lace and hints of lingerie remain a De Sarno staple in the Gucci Spring/Summer ’25 collection..

Naturally, Sabato De Sarno’s signatures—or by his admission, his “obsessions”—are all on display. So cue meticulous tailoring, delicate lingerie, luxurious leather, amd nods to the 60’s, all intertwined with an undying exploration of Gucci’s rich heritage.

The collection features one-of-a-kind Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags, and bamboo-inspired jewellery.

Case in point, the Gucci Bamboo 1947 takes centre stage. The beloved bag is reimagined with modern touches by skilled craftsmen working with leather, lacquer, and Plexiglas. These include one-of-a-kind Gucci Bamboo 1947 bags as fashioned by Japanese artists in honour of Gucci’s six-decade presence in Japan. The bamboo motif also appears elsewhere, evolving on the body as jewellery or accentuating the draping of 90’s-inspired jersey dresses.

The Gucci Horsebit motifs in hardware and printed forms.

Another Gucci motif, the Horsebit, remains central to De Sarno’s collection, appearing on the aforementioned boots and bucket bag, as well as colourful prints. Additionally, the Gucci Flora foulard, wrapped as a headscarf, reappears in its original design by Vittorio Accornero de Testa. Its nine bouquets on a white canvas adding a beautiful contrast. But here, this classic piece is revisited in the colour palette of the collection, affirming its timeless charm, no matter how it is worn.

With this collection, more than any prior, Sabato De Sarno has truly come into his own at Gucci. And we are here to seize the moment with him.

The Gucci Flora foulard makes a comeback.