Artistry in a bottle.

The emotional power of fragrance goes beyond leaving a lasting impression. It possesses a tool to elevate your mood, shape memories and uplift emotions. Francis Kurkdjian, the perfumer and artistic director of the eponymous fragrance house, has created renowned scents that have left a lasting mark on the perfumery industry. Without a doubt, the iconic Baccarat Rouge 540 and the rich Oud Satin Mood have emerged in conversations, and for good reason. However, his mastery in the olfactory industry has continued to resonate with fans globally through his captivating scents in every creation.

The Baccarat Rouge 540, distinguished by its Baccarat “Rouge à l’or” (golden red) crystal, has redefined the fragrance landscape. A scent that evokes the very nature of the crystal, which was formed through a collaboration with the legendary Baccarat on the brand’s 250th anniversary in 2014.

 

A celebration of the Baccarat Rouge 540

When we think about the Baccarat Rouge 540, it takes us back to our trip to Bangkok, where we celebrated a decade of this signature scent with Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Set against the backdrop of the exquisitely restored Nai Lert Heritage Home—holding 110 years of history in the city of Bangkok—the Maison collaborated with the Nai Lert Group, inviting an elite gathering of connoisseurs and luminaries from across the Asia Pacific. Stepping inside the opulent space, the atmosphere brought a dose of glamour to our gaze, with splashes of red floral blooms at every corner. As guests donned their finest attire, influential figures such as Naphaporn ‘Lek’ from the Nai Lert Group, along with pageant royalty like Suchata ‘Opal’, Miss World 2025, Malaysian content creators Arisa Soraya, Mariesya Muhd and Ms Kỳ Duyên, Miss Universe Vietnam 2024, were in attendance.

Our time there shed a new light on the art of perfumery. During a masterclass with Kurkdjian himself, the perfumer revealed that in celebration of the iconic fragrance’s tenth anniversary, a new variation of the beloved fragrance was unveiled: the Baccarat Rouge 540 Édition Millésime. This exceptional concoction boasts an unparalleled concentration of natural ambergris, one of the world’s rarest and most coveted materials, inviting aficionados to experience a profound olfactory depth. The limited-edition creation, encased in a striking red crystal spray bottle with a clear crystal base, showcases artisanal excellence, requiring over 500 hours of craftsmanship from 19 specialised artisans.

Our time there was everything and more. From learning about his journey as a perfumer to discovering the creation of Baccarat Rouge 540, we spoke with Kurkdjian about the heart of his artistic journey in forming his ideas into the perfume wardrobe we have come to love today.

Francis Kurkdjian shares his journey with BAZAAR:

Can you share your first memory that triggered your interest in perfumery? 

FK: “My sister used to collect tiny miniatures, specifically little bottles that were replicas of larger ones. As a young girl, she was fascinated by their scents and their appearances, which looked like gems. I remember opening them one after another to discover what was inside.”

In celebration of a decade of the finest Baccarat Rouge 540 scent, could you share the most fulfilling moments on how this fragrance has shaped you and the brand over the years?

FK: “It was the moment I was given the project and when the president of Baccarat expressed her desire and trust in my vision and creative direction for what a perfume should be. That was a memorable moment for me, considering how well-known the perfume has become. We started this journey over ten years ago; the perfume was launched at the end of 2014. I began creating it in late 2013 and early 2014, spending two months crafting the scent.”

 

What is your favourite part of the olfactory creation process, and do you have any specific challenges when bringing the scents to life?

FK: “It’s interesting because every experience is different, and what makes it so compelling is when you challenge yourself by not repeating yourself. The first step in the inspiration process is important. It helps you to define the playground.  However, if you mishandle any part of the creative process—whether it’s brainstorming, formulating your ideas, or crafting the final product—you may end up with an unsatisfactory result. It’s essential to enjoy each stage of creation. What I find most rewarding is reflecting on the entire journey once the project is complete. That retrospective view reveals how interesting and valuable the process has been.”

With art and travel at the heart of your creative processes, is there a specific art form that sits close to your heart, or a special place that you escape to for inspiration? 

FK: “It’s not so much about travelling as it is about meeting people who interest me. As for the art that resonates most with me, it’s less about the specific art form and more about the thought processes behind it. I feel a strong connection to how artists inject their ideas into their work. For example, I admire American lighting artist James Turrell and French artist Sophie Calle. I relate to Calle because she views the world in a unique way, blending fun with dark humour. All in all, it’s about how an artist thinks and their vision of life and art.”

As the Maison prepares for the upcoming exhibition in Paris, what visionary ideas or themes do you hope to explore through this project? How do you see it shaping the future of fragrance and the Maison’s identity?

FK: “It’s not about the products or the brands. It’s about displaying the unknown. Whether it’s through the relationships I have with modern art, ballet or music, it extends to science and technology, too. Ultimately, I am dedicated to the vision that scent—and the world surrounding it—can be elevated to an art form. The idea is to show the audience that perfume transcends mere wearability, but rather the fragrance and its components serve as an artistic medium to convey the vision of one’s world.

In regard to your second question. It may seem pretentious to say that this will shape the industry. (laughs) As a creator of scents, I’m trying to elevate the idea of what a perfume should be.”

Lastly, after 30 remarkable years in perfumery, what advice would you offer your young self?

FK: “Go for it! The idea of not forgetting your childhood dreams is important—never let them fade away. Try to pursue them. Even if you don’t achieve all of your goals or succeed in every single dream, they should serve as a kind of guideline in your life. Think of them as markers on a roadway; they can help guide you, even if you bounce around from one point to another. Remember, it’s essential to keep these dreams in mind and stay focused on what’s truly important to you.”

His upcoming exhibition titled “Perfume, Sculpture of the Invisible: 30 Years of Creation by Francis Kurkdjian,” at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, is slated to open its doors from 29 October to 23 November 2025.

Discover Maison Francis Kurkdjian here.