A night to remember.
Aptly named 90D, this sensory dining experience–created by influential F&B industry players Kent Chua and William Lee and presented by RCX Group–runs only for 90 nights. It features artwork by Malaysian artist Jun Wong and a menu created by chef Tor Aik “Toraik” Chua, who cut his teeth at the world-renowned Noma and helmed three-Michelin-starred restaurant Zén Singapore before making his return to Malaysia.
“90D started with a simple belief: that world-class Malaysian talents deserve a platform at home. [It] serves as a reminder of how beautiful life is–and how little time we have to experience it,” says Chua.
Harper’s BAZAAR Malaysia attended an exclusive first look of 90D. Read our review of the dinner party below.
View this post on Instagram
90D begins the moment we walk into the recently opened Conlay by E&O with a shot of liquor in a popping candy-rimmed glass. We can still feel the crackling and fizzing of the pop rocks as the elevator climbs to the top floor of the building. The doors open to a sprawling space with walls of windows. At the table, we watch the sun set over the iconic skyline of Kuala Lumpur. Jun Wong’s larger-than-life light installation, Big Bang, comes to life.
Our initial reaction to hearing the concept of a dining experience with light and sound pairings was one of hesitation. We were nervous that the experience–appealing to senses of taste, sight, sound, smell and touch–might be overstimulating. However, the thoughtfully curated affair successfully managed these elements, finding the balance between pushing boundaries and showing restraint. For instance, 90D defies convention by serving a few dishes, such as the K.F.C, a reconstructed chicken drumstick made with leftover giblets and a fermented cherry centre, without any cutlery. It allows for an immersive experience of Chef Toraik Chua’s menu.
The light and sound are orchestrated to match each course; it begins soft and slow to complement the bright flavours of the starting “Vichyssoise”, a frothy leek broth with mint and pine nuts, transitioning to pulsing red and orange to suit the vibrant citrus notes of the Coral grouper. There is a moment before the main wagyu course, or salt-baked lotus root for the vegetarians, where 90D threatens to spill over into excess: a human disco ball emerges from the darkness and ascends to the ceiling for an aerial performance. However, it is tempered immediately by the Big Bang’s calming illumination, which takes us with ease to the comforting, warm flavours of the spiced dessert.
The night is paced perfectly, with enough time between courses to digest–and discuss!–the unique, novel sensory combinations we were experiencing. A rare occurrence in our line of work, we barely touched our phones for a quick e-mail mindless scroll between courses. Priced at RM 798 per person with alcohol pairings, this thoroughly engaging dinner (and a show) is worth the splurge.
