Written by By Nandini D’Souza Wolfe, September 8 2016
Fresh off Ford’s 10-plus minute standing ovation at the Venice Film Fest for his second feature film Nocturnal Animals, the designer sent forth a collection that hit all of Ford’s favourite notes: Seventies-slick, lots of leather and fur, oodles of disco-worthy sequins, sexy-severe beauty and hints of naughtiness in the huge chain details and harness belts.
There was confidence in the way he paired sequined pencil skirts with animal-printed fur tops and vice versa; ramped up utility camo with tighter patterns and done in a trim velvet blazer (one for him, one for her, of course), and took the classic Seventies palette of avocado, orange and mustard and made them cool in a way that wasn’t ironic—terrific fur peacoats and oversized toppers.
And yet there were moments of unabashed glamour that felt like the designer was tipping his hat to the sirens of the Golden Age, when sex was hinted at and big statements—a snowy white hair skirt paired under a long-sleeve, silver sequined top, perhaps—were the thing.
If the collection told a story, it was Ford’s fascination with fashion and how he’s made a study of creating clothes that turn bodies into weapons of mass seduction. Where a sliver of clavicle, waist, thigh and a pout wield power. Whether that’s via slim-jim tweed pencil skirts or their matching unfinished jackets cinched tightly to create extra ruffles, giant fur shearling coats that screamed “watch me now”; the covered up high-neck blouses and dresses that turned to reveal massive back cut-outs, or the strong set of black column gowns.