Vassa&Co at Moscow Fashion Week, March ’24
Back in March, BAZAAR made our way up north to check out Moscow Fashion Week. Bringing together over 120 designers from across Russia as well as Brazil, China, Indonesia, India, Turkey, South Africa, Costa Rica, Ethiopia and Egypt, Moscow Fashion Week offers a refreshing take on where fashion is and where it could go.
Here are our top picks.
ABZAEVA
Origin: Ulan-Ude (Russia)
As the first show to ease us into Moscow Fashion Week, Abzaeva sets the tone for what lies ahead. In fact, the collection unfolds like a preview of the dominant trends we’ll get to see throughout the week. Abstract forms, corsetry, origami-inspired folds, ropes, fabric manipulation, volume, and head-to-toe black. Lots and lots of black.
Designer and founder Nadezda Abzaeva returns to her roots here, as she taps into the history of the shamanic clan from Olkhon Island to showcase her reinterpretation of the traditions of the Buryat nomadic culture. Thus, an appreciation of crafts is evident in this collection. Additionally, fabrics are folded, pinched and gathered to create texture and dimension, further accentuated by slits, fringe and a myriad of appliqués.
ALIA ABAZA
Origin: Egypt
Making its international runway debut at Moscow Fashion Week, Cairo-based label Alia Abaza continues to champion individuality in a collection that brings together empowering silhouettes in a myriad of textures. The complexity of garment cuts are further accented with intricate embroideries in ethnic motifs representative of the brand’s identity and origin.
It’s a confident collection for the edgy, modern woman, designed to make her feel distinctive and unique. And depending on her mood, the collection switches between elegantly tailored and crisp ensembles to looks that express a raw energy. As a matter of fact, some looks even merge those two aesthetics together. So white shirting is mixed with a raw-edged pinafore and a skirt festooned with metallic buttons. A slick, black leather dress with puffy sleeves is fitted with a denim hood adorned with embroidery. Meanwhile, a puffer jacket—in denim or wool—is cut closer to the silhouette of an evening jacket, giving it versatility and personality.
XAKAMA
Origin: Moscow (Russia)
At Xakama, feminine strength is showcased through an impeccable study in contrasts, told in a polished parade of eclectic ensembles: Menswear meets female dress codes. Traditional tailoring meets deconstruction. Abstract shirting meets chic cargo trousers.
Though grey and black dominate, pops of brilliant pink, purple and mustard help to energise the otherwise sombre collection. Elsewhere, tulle skirts and frilly accents add a sense of romance as a balance against the edgy corporate and streetwear-adjacent silhouettes. It’s an urban collection meant to represent the “multifaceted inner world of women”, and oh how eloquently it is expressed.
BITTE__RUHE
Origin: Moscow (Russia)
There’s only so much black, grey and beige one can take in one sitting. Yes, we fashion folks do love our black clothes. But after a seemingly unending parade of gloom and deconstructed fashion, we long for some visual respite. And so Bitte_Ruhe comes along like a jolt of joy. In sequinned mermaid core and pretty pastels, no less.
Unabashedly girly, the collection begins with form-fitting floor-length dresses and flared trousers made from the softest of fabrics. Moreover, designer Ksenia Kudryashova’s penchant for underwear as outerwear is palpable here, as we see her borrowing elements from corsetry. If not built into the structure of the garments, the corset is turned into a print or a deconstructed feature of a jacket. Our favourite look is a bomber-dress hybrid in swaths of dyed lace, complete with sporty stripes and zip-up front. But, alas, then comes the black—you just can’t avoid it. Merging the austere with activewear, these looks present voluminous sleeves inspired by historical tailoring, now modernised with high-tech fabrics and sporty elements such as zip fastenings and drawstrings.
BY /DAS/
Origin: Moscow (Russia)
Upcycling has always been within the DNA of Moscow-based label By /DAS/. This season, the brand takes its cue from Russian folklore, in a collection that features a modern-day retelling of Slavic fairy tales. Altogether, contrasting elements—another key trend this season—define the characters finding their way on the runway.
The looks are designed to embody mermaids, water nymphs, and noonday spirits. With that in mind, the clothes express bold combos of prints and materials, dramatic lace and patchwork, paired with webbed bodysuits, asymmetric sweaters, and oodles of imagination. One thing for sure, By /DAS/ proves that sustainability, much like fantasy, can be so much fun.
GAPANOVICH
Origin: Moscow (Russia)
Who can resist the pull of nostalgia? Designer Alexandra Gapanovich invites us into her personal history, through a collection that reinterprets her childhood memories in fantastical fashion.
This Gapanovich collection is said to be inspired by the beloved Soviet-era game “Secrets”. No surprise then that the silhouettes, colour palette and accessories all nod to a bygone era. But updated with a sense of quirk and cheek. Thus we are treated to the appearances of elongated sleeves, ruffled shoulders, vibrant pops of colour and rich floral prints. Where romantic peasant dresses intermingle with broad-shoulder coats and burlap tendrils.
VASSA&CO
This season, Vassa&Co unveils a riveting collection that superbly reflects the avant-garde essence of constructivism. The runway makes way for sharp, perfectly cut coats, sophisticated trouser suits, and enticing smoking jackets. But it wasn’t all business. Enter dramatic tops adorned with long fringes, mid-riff baring tunics and tubular sleeves that recall Brutalist architecture.
Though seemingly serious, with its monastic if not cerebral take on dressing, this collection also dares to experiment with the absurd in its exploration of the complex “philosophy of fractal geometry of space”. Above all, Vassa&Co brings an intellectual dimension to the catwalk, inviting a new discourse to the fashion conversation.
GENERAL VI
Origin: Moscow (Russia)
What’s undeniable about Russian designers is that they love to disrupt traditional codes of dressing. For General VI, its staple item is the classic puffer jacket, now reinvigorated to new forms.
So we see the classic puffer undergoing various transformations here. Volumes are exaggerated, the silhouettes are reshaped and lengths are reconsidered to offer versatility in styling. Short puffer jackets are juxtaposed with sheer skirts, cargo trousers, and velvet boxer shorts. Elsewhere, puffed up structures form the hem of dresses. While another look presents a pink puffer vest adorned with ostrich feathers, worn over a body-hugging dress. Sporty meets sophistication makes for a winning combo.
IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA
Origin: Indonesia
Designer Irmasari Joedawinata brings her take on modesty fashion to Moscow with a collection inspired by a distant, misty coastline. Silhouettes are smooth, softened by layers of transparent fabric and pleated silk, pinched to mimic movement or crushed to evoke sea foam. The collection is light and airy, with soft cocoons that envelope the body like a gust of wind.
Fittingly, nature also provides the palette Joedawinata works from, with harmonious hues of pink chalk, grey sand, coastal stones, sea blue, and tropical green. Almost meditative in spirit, the collection proposes a more creative take on modest fashion, one that represents soft femininity with touches of artistic flair.
SERGEY SYSOEV
Origin: Moscow (Russia)
Another Russian designer taking a trip back into the past, Sergey Sysoev goes through several different eras for the collection of his namesake label. Specifically, he turns to the allure of the feminine Sixties, the grunge Nineties, and the vibrant 2000s through a celebration of prints.
In a Fashion Week dominated by solids and neutrals, his prints allow the collection to stand out. And he is adept with the medium, treating his clothes like canvases on which he “paints” on. Where he blends contrasting florals much like a collage. Though elegant occasion wear is his forte, Sysoev is not afraid to go edgy—perforated sweaters are paired with tulle skirts adorned with rosettes. While a cocktail-ready silk blouse is seen matched with a more casual wrap skirt in wool.
SHATU 1997 (Kirov)
Origin: Kirov (Russia)
Oh, how we adore this collection! Structured but graceful, with a very contemporary take on romance. Designer Svetlana Shatunova crafts a Shatu 1997 collection that marries the sensuality and intimacy of lace with the elegance and practicality of soft tailoring.
In spite of its predominantly neutral colour palette (with some sumptuous blues in the mix), the collection doesn’t feel monotonous. Furthermore, the forms are meant to be theatrical, but done so in an approach that is cerebral and almost ethereal. Explicitly, from casual to formal, gallery to gala, boardroom to boudoir, there is quiet strength in these clothes. We love.
YANA BESFAMILNAYA
Origin: Perm (Russia)
Lingerie looks and thigh high boots? Sign us up! Designer Yana Besfamilnaya delves into an eclectic mix that borrows from the worlds of underwear, punk and, erm, fishermen chic?, to create a collection that comments on the ever-changing nature of the modern world.
Cute dresses reminiscent of nighties feature garter straps, fashioned from semi-sheer or netting fabric. Metallic skirts and leather vest and pouches are trimmed or knotted with camping rope while safety pins decorate the bust line. It’s about finding the meeting points between soft versus hard, indoor versus outdoor, sexy versus utility.
