Han Chong invites us to his home and studio, where we get an exclusive insight into his lifestyle and the inner workings behind his successful contemporary label.
“Do you miss home?” I ask Han as we wait for Lily and Rio to finish setting up in Han’s kitchen for his photoshoot with BAZAAR. Han is quick to respond with a resounding “Yes!” eyes lighting up in twinkles at the thought of his family in Penang. “I really want to go home this year but the quarantine systems in place are really hard on my schedule. I especially miss the big gatherings we used to have. Both my parents have big families and it’s nice to go home to get spoiled by them!” he continues with a cheeky glint and a wide smile.
Han Chong is a formidable force within the fashion industry, making a name for himself through his highly covetable and stylish brand Self-Portrait. Since its inception in 2013, the contemporary brand has seen numerous endorsements, from celebrities to royals, and counts many influential women among their most avid fans. His meteoric rise in the industry comes as little surprise to keen observers. His clothes are feminine and sophisticated while catering to a wide audience at accessible price points. “I was so determined to send this message out about contemporary price points as I wanted to target a bigger demographic. I wanted women across all stages of life to have that luxury experience,” he explains.
Indeed, when he first started Self-Portrait, he received encouragement to raise his prices but stuck to his guns and has since reaped the rewards of his steadfast belief. His first launch at Selfridges sold out within two days and his first pieces at Net-a-Porter sold out within 24 hours. “I suppose customers felt it was very refreshing at the time,” he muses.
As our conversation progresses, I realise his laser-focused vision contributes to much of his success. “My starting point when it comes to making dresses is wanting the women who wear them to feel good in it. I want them to feel the best version of themselves, so that’s always my starting point and it still is even today,” says Han. It’s evident that thinking about the needs of his audience and staying relevant is a top priority as he shares his thoughts on the current pandemic and how the Self-Portrait woman would want to dress. “How does she want to feel after the pandemic? The clothes need to reflect that. I feel that fashion is very sensitive towards women’s needs—it’s her second skin so she needs to feel good in what she’s wearing. Also, consumers today are both smart and savvy. They know what they want, and you need to treat them with respect,” he continues as Lily suggests we make our way to the rooftop terrace of his home.
Situated in Shoreditch, Han’s home blends in effortlessly with its surroundings. Complete with Graffiti art, it remains discreet and inconspicuous to passersby walking along the busy street of Bricklane. The interior, on the other hand, speaks otherwise—not too much but not too little either. Various sculptures, plants, objects and art pieces decorate his concrete kingdom, finding solace in their spacious surroundings. Natural light beams through the tall windows, casting a warm glow on items and surfaces graced with its touch. Shadows tease and fill the walls in curious places, delighting in their temporary freedom granted by the illuminating intruder.
As we soak in the ambience of our surroundings, admiring his abode on our way to the rooftop, there is a sense of calm and quiet akin to the atmosphere one would normally find at an art exhibition. A reflection of Han’s distinctive taste and personality? Very much so. “My house is quite minimal. It’s a space that allows me to take a break from the hectic professional demands … a space for me to recharge and reconnect with myself,” he offers with a smile amidst the hushed but excited “Oohs” and “Ahhs” from the team that echo through the tranquility of the space. In fact, Han had once dabbled in the art world but found it restrictive, catering to “a very niche audience”. He had also presented his works at the 53rd Venice Biennale in 2009: his artwork titled Butterflies—a playful display of various underwear—hangs proudly in a corner of his urban home. He giggles as I stare at the artwork, transfixed, and sheepishly tells me it is his work. Of course, I take a photo, as does Lily.
When we finally reach the rooftop through the winding stairs, we are greeted by a magnificent view of London’s robust skyline complete with a rare but welcoming sunny blue sky. With not a moment to lose, Lily and Rio get to work, snapping and filming away while Han poses naturally with quiet confidence. Dressed casually in a simple monochrome ensemble, Han’s aesthetic differs immensely from the gorgeous dresses he creates. Sticking to essentials such as t-shirts, his minimalist approach to dressing “is simple and uniform-like”; punctuated with different hats to suit his look of the day. After a quick browse through the images, he ponders and decides immediately, “I’ll change my hat,” he says as he leaves the room for a quick swap before reappearing with his chosen navy cap, pleased with his choice.
Though Han is friendly and charming, he is concise and professional when it comes to his work. He appears comfortable in making quick decisions and staying fluid; qualities that translate into his professional life. When his partners at Three Floor were moving in another direction, Han did not hesitate to leave the brand despite its immense success. “I did not want to compromise on my vision, so I decided to pursue my own path and that was probably the best decision I have ever made,” he says with conviction. He is also quick to credit his success at Self-Portrait to the people and the buyers who have supported him on his journey. “When I started Self-Portrait, it was only me and one intern, who is also Malaysian,” he reminisces. “Was it scary?” I ask, curious. A warm laugh follows his candid and spontaneous response, attesting to his endearing personality. “With the right mindset, you can do anything. Maybe, because at the time, I was so determined, nothing else mattered. Now that I’m in my early 40s, I don’t know if I could do it again if I’m honest!”
There is no ego when it comes to running a business—Han Chong
I ask his thoughts on walking the tightrope between creativity and accessible price points. “You need to think about the design and the process thoroughly. It’s important to make smart executive decisions even if it means tweaking your original idea. It’s all about common sense, but you need to have a point of view and believe in your vision,” he replies in a matter-of-fact tone. At the end of the day, Han is acutely aware that he is running a business and attributes this mindset to his parents. “I grew up helping my parents with their business and it was through this experience that I gained insight into this [business] world,” he says. Perhaps it is from this initial building block, coupled with his innate aptitude for commerce, that Han is able to smoothly manoeuvre challenges that come his way. As a leader, he is also conscious of skill gaps and remedies this concern by enlisting the abilities and insights of talented people to fill the void and drive the business. “There is no ego when it comes to running a business. It’s important to know your strengths and weaknesses. Hiring the right people is crucial to achieve the outcome you envision.”
We take a few more shots around the house before packing up and making our way to his studio. “It’s a ten-minute walk,” he says as we make a turn around the corner, coffee in one hand and the other in his pocket. His comfortable demeanour speaks volumes. After living in London for over 20 years, Han exudes the air of a typical Londoner and much like his home, Han blends into the crowd with ease, poised yet unassuming. During our walk, he points out cafes and restaurants he frequents often and suggests exhibitions in the area that might be of interest to us. And once we arrive at his studio in Hoxton, he navigates us through the different departments of his office, introducing his team in the process.
At the design department (where the magic happens), Han glides around shifting furniture and moodboards to accommodate us, dismantling one in the process much to the horror of his colleague, who then generously assembles the moodboard again. I spot a new design on one of his many moodboards and as if reading my mind, he gives us a quick lowdown on the piece. Han beams shyly after ending his short presentation, saying with a wide smile, “I want my audience to feel like a kid in a candy store.” He then talks us through his design process, emphasising his efforts to produce as little waste as possible through meticulous editing before sampling, the significance of storytelling, and the importance of making “meaningful changes” to stay relevant.
Midway through our conversation, I mention the pretty images of his dresses—seen constantly on his social media pages—taken by the window and he doesn’t hesitate to recreate the set for us, immediately pulling out a white dress (incidentally, the same one worn by the Duchess of Cambridge) and hoisting it on the window ledge. The process itself is a true balancing act that takes a good few minutes; his commitment to our request is admirable and humbling. Regardless of the task at hand, Han approaches it with seriousness and sincerity.
On reflecting over the past two years caught in the storm of the pandemic, Han is grateful for the continuous support from his loyal fans. “During the pandemic, we actually overperformed. It was very inspiring, and it gave me a lot of confidence to explore different categories and open more stores.” And with his label expanding at a rapid pace—particularly in China—plans to open more boutiques are currently in the works. Their recent acquisition of Roland Mouret under SP Collection further exemplifies his journey and progress as one of the hottest contemporary womenswear designers. With the benefit of hindsight, would he choose to do it all over again if he could? “Without a doubt, yes. Although it hasn’t always been easy, the ups and downs are all part of this incredible journey. One thing I’ve learnt is that you’ve just got to keep an open mind to adapt to whatever life throws at you. The minute you stop being curious, that’s when everything goes downhill.”
Photographer: Lily Sadin
Videographer: Rio Carciero
Video Editing: Jackie Mah
Fashion Director: Ai Lim
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This article first appeared in Harper's BAZAAR Malaysia March 2022 issue. Out now on newsstands.
