Hedi Slimane's Best Runway Moments in Saint Laurent

In less than half a decade, Hedi Slimane changed the location, name and aesthetic of Saint Laurent, stamping it with a rocker-cool LA edge that was all his. Celebrated and reviled by critics in nearly equal measure, Slimane also brought economic success to the storied French brand. Here, a retrospective of his best runway moments for his Saint Laurent, as news of his departure spreads.

Spring 2013

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For his controversial debut, Slimane introduced some witchy women in the spirit of rock star Stevie Nicks—complete with lace-up leather, flowing black chiffon and pointed hats.

Fall 2013

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Fall exited the ’70s and entered an era of ’90s grunge, leveraging ripped denim, plaids and ultra-feminine details like florals against edgy lace-up boots, set to the sounds of North Cali garage band Thee Oh Sees.

Spring 2014

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With Le Smoking jumpsuits, lip prints and high-shine, one-shoulder fitted party dresses, Slimane brought the Saint Laurent woman back to the heyday of Debbie Harry at Blondie and emphasised some Yves Saint Laurent hallmarks.

Fall 2014

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And just like that, Slimane took his time machine back to a youthquaking London in the 1960s—making it his own with enviable statement fur coats and high-octane mini dresses. The invites were done by John Baldessari, illustrating the designer’s support of the LA art scene.

Spring 2015

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Set to a custom soundtrack by Al Eide, the Spring 2015 show was more cool-girl fare, but this time with playful feminine prints, a bold color story and even a sparkling turban. It’s all about the accessories, after all.

Fall 2015

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Short, tight leather mini dresses slit up-to-there, cigarette pants and skinny ties and a beauty look that falls somewhere between Siouxsie Sioux and a Robert Palmer girl brought Slimane back to the ’80s for Fall 2015— to drive home the idea, there were even some shredded stockings.

Spring 2016

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In a nod to Saint Laurent fan Courtney Love, models donned tiaras for Spring 2016. Bias-cut slip dresses, chubby furs, sheer mini dresses and Kate Moss-at-Glastonbury knee high boots finish this glam-rock seasonal story.

Fall 2016

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And for what we’ve come to know as his Saint Laurent swan song, Slimane put on his very own couture show in Paris for Fall 2016, complete with chairs with engraved plaques for each guest and a full-on Reagan-era ’80s homage. There were dramatic sleeves, ultra-minis, ultra-plunging dresses, fur coats that enter the room before the girl does and overt, unapologetic glam like we haven’t seen in years. Even if you didn’t like it, it’s impossible to say it wasn’t impactful—which may be a statement that encompasses Slimane’s full tenure at Saint Laurent (skip the Yves).

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