Interview: 3.1 Phillip Lim Celebrates its 20th Anniversary with a Joyful Flair

“We have also stayed true to who we are in this collection—it is a wardrobe for the modern global citizen.” – Phillip Lim.

What does joy mean to you? To us, it means reliving a precious memory. It can be a moment in time when you’re surrounded by your loved ones. Or, it could be a celebration. At the moment, joy brings us back to New York. Stepping into the bustling city, we were immediately engulfed in its electrifying energy. Just two weeks ago, we had the privilege of landing in Manhattan for the prestigious New York Fashion Week, where we were about to witness the unveiling of the SS25 collection. Little did we know, our weekend was about to be transformed into a truly unique experience. We found ourselves seated inside the show venue for 3.1 Phillip Lim’s SS25 collection.

The 3.1 Phillip Lim’s SS25 collection was not just a fashion show; it was a celebration of the brand’s 20th anniversary. This independent Asian-American fashion house, founded by business partners Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou, has made a significant impact in the fashion realm with its intricate designs, whimsical detailing, and iconic leather goods. The unveiling of the SS25 collection was a testament to their journey and the mark they have left in the industry. Remember the Pashli bag?

Fast-forward 20 years, and the fashion house is celebrating an incredible milestone in sunny New York. The unveiling of ‘Memories of Joy’ radiates a light like no other, brimming with silhouettes that evoke a sense of romance with a slight edge.

We had the privilege of speaking to the visionary behind the brand, designer and creative director Phillip Lim. His insights into the inspiration behind ‘Memories of Joy’ and his unwavering commitment to the brand’s identity after two decades left us feeling awe-inspiring.

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Congratulations on turning 20. What can we look forward to at the Spring/Summer 2025 runway show to celebrate this incredible milestone?

Phillip Lim: “It is a homage to joy and the memories of joy. Joy is where it all started twenty years ago.”

Why ‘Memories of Joy’?

PL: “On such an incredible journey, the moments blur together into a beautiful experience, and that is what I’m channelling for the show and why it’s titled ‘Memories of Joy.’ I’m not nostalgic. I’m evolutionary. So, reflecting back, it’s more about the evolution and the progress that I recognise in myself and in the people, places and experiences that bring me joy.”

How does this collection differ from your previous work?

PL: “It is different because it is the culmination of twenty years, and as such, it’s a love letter to 3.1 Phillip Lim in all its iterations. But we have also very much stayed true to who we are in this collection – it is a wardrobe for the modern global citizen. It is both aspirational and pragmatic. It takes classic silhouettes and throws a little madness on them, that twist that is our signature that makes each piece unique. We set out twenty years ago to romance reality and that has never changed.”

Can you share a particular moment from the past two decades that holds special significance for you?

PL: “There are many. However, milestones like our tenth-anniversary show, in which we collaborated with artist Maya Lin, will always stand out. The theme was stopping to smell the flowers because that’s what I wanted to do… Ironically, there were no flowers in the show. It was topsoil that we created in these beautiful sculptural mounds that Maya designed. We spent six months collecting dirt — literally contaminated dirt from construction sites — and had this lot in New Jersey with bulldozers turning the soil to regenerate. We brought 60 tons of topsoil into Manhattan. After the show, all of it was donated to local parks and gardens, for flowers to bloom the next season. I look back at that as the beginning of my environmentally responsible journey.”

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How has the field of design evolved over the past 20 years, and how have you adapted to these changes?

PL: “When we started, in 2004/2005, we were pioneers because we believed a luxury quality product should be – and could be – available at a more accessible price. The department stores didn’t know what to do with us at first because the garments were so beautiful, like designer, but they weren’t priced that way. But we pushed and we were consistent every season, so, they created this new category and everything followed suit. Ultimately, I think we have stayed relevant because we’ve stayed the course. What we do, who we dress, what we stand for hasn’t changed. If anything, we are more vocal about it now because we have longevity that speaks for itself.”

What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced as a designer, and how have you overcome them?

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PL: “The fashion calendar is constant, it never stops, the pressure to innovate can be relentless. As designers, we are creating, at minimum, four collections a year. So, that pace is a challenge. It’s a challenge for creativity because you need distance, perspective and rest in order to reset and come back with fresh ideas. The pandemic was also a huge challenge for the industry, for our business and my Asian American community. That first year of the pandemic shifted the foundations and uncovered so much that the community around me needed. I became more aware, more useful, and more connected in the ways I could support and uplift my AAPI community and my New York City community. The first few years after 2020 were about food, nourishment, and togetherness. We worked with City Harvest, Feed Forward, and Heart of Dinner. Since then, I’ve shifted my focus to mental health in the AAPI community with Creating Space – a dedicated support system for the AAPI community to come together, share and heal.”

How do you stay true to yourself and stay inspired after 20 years in the industry?

PL: “By remaining vulnerable, open, curious. And by staying connected to my community. I cannot do this without my team, my friends, my business partner, my family. Fashion is an ecosystem. This brand is an ecosystem. We feed each other and need each other to grow and survive.”

What do you hope people take away from experiencing this collection?

PL: “It is simple – a return to Joy. Joy is for everyone, simple, immediate, and everywhere as long as we are open to feel it.”

 

Amalina Anuar is the Digital Director of Harper's Bazaar Malaysia. From covering the latest runway trends to the hottest happenings in Kuala Lumpur, she also delves deep into all things lifestyle and beauty.