The former Raf Simons right hand showed his first collection for the French house during Haute Couture Week.
Words by Alison S. Cohn
Megan Thee Stallion, meet Pieter Mulier. Mulier’s excellent first collection at Alaïa—the house founded by Azzedine Alaïa, which literally defined body-con dressing—comes at a time when Hot Girl Style is being made newly relevant by a generation of stars who weren’t alive when the beloved Tunisia-born designer set up shop in the Marais neighborhood of Paris in 1987.
The debut comes four years after Alaïa’s passing. A Belgian designer who cut his teeth as Raf Simons’s right hand at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein, Mulier wanted his first collection for the French house to be “a return to foundations.” To set the scene, he staged the show on the Rue de Moussy, outside the atelier where its founder once lived, worked, and cooked (Alaïa was famous for hosting dinner parties for fashion friends including Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington).
ALAÏA WINTER-SPRING 2022