Banda Neira

Banda Neira is the only significant settlement in the archipelago. Once the administrative centre of the mighty VOC, it is now a quiet backwater, long lapsed into genteel decay. Evidence of its former glory abounds; majestic Fort Belgica on the hilltop above, the elegant Dutch Reform Church with its wonderful collection of old tombstones, the elegant arches of Hotel Maulana (a little slice of Somerset Maugham), the rusting remnants of Fort Nassua, the eerie former residence of the Dutch controleur and ghosts of tree lined avenues. The first and last dinner had on land while on this journey was at the Cilu Bintang Estate. With the nutmeg as its logo, this hotel of colonial Dutch architecture is surrounded by greenery. Accompanying our delectable fresh fish and leafy Indonesian meal was the sounds of insects and singing birds. I am reminded of British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace as we’ve been visiting the areas where he conceived the theory of evolution by natural selection, published jointly with Charles Darwin in 1858. Getting back on the phinisi, I grab myself Wallace’s book about his travels The Malay Archipelago, a great book to end the journey with.

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