Steeped in Scent
The past few years have seen fragrance return to ritual. Beyond sweetness and spectacle, there is a growing appetite for compositions that feel contemplative, textured and transportive. Tea, once confined to fleeting summer colognes, has stepped forward with new authority. At the centre of this shift sits oolong.
Oolong has moved from supporting note to centre stage. Here is how brands from niche to heritage are redefining tea in contemporary perfumery.
Balanced between green and black, oolong carries a quiet complexity. It can be creamy or mineral, floral or gently roasted, often revealing several of these facets at once. For perfumers seeking freshness with depth, it offers nuance rather than novelty. At the same time, the growing influence of Asian culture within the global fragrance space has reshaped the narrative around tea. No longer an exotic reference point, it is now a leading voice. Oolong, in particular, feels like the note defining this chapter.
Armani Beauty Thé Yulong Eau de Toilette
Among the earlier signals of this evolution was Thé Yulong. Built around the tension between green and black tea facets, the composition evokes high altitude plantations and cool mountain air. Citrus and cardamom introduce clarity, while smoky undertones and soft woods lend quiet structure. The fragrance captures tea not as a garnish but as landscape, textured and expansive.
D’Annam Pomelo Oolong
D’Annam approaches oolong with intimacy. Pomelo brightens the opening, while osmanthus softens the heart, creating the impression of sunlight filtering through a tea house window. White musk lingers like steam curling from porcelain cups. The effect is refined and understated, rooted in the everyday ritual of tea drinking rather than spectacle.
Etat Libre d’Orange Above the Waves
In Above the Waves, tea becomes both material and metaphor. Oolong weaves through Ceylon black tea and green maté, layered with bergamot, incense and rose. Vetiver and cedar anchor the composition, giving it a sense of grounded movement. The blend feels expansive yet composed, illustrating how tea can shape a fragrance’s architecture from top to base.
Chasing Scents Tea Service
Independent house Chasing Scents brings technical precision to the theme. Tea Service features house made tea extracts derived from whole flowers and loose leaves, capturing the lively warmth of weekend gatherings and shared pots of jasmine tea. Green, fruity and floral nuances are balanced by soft musk, reflecting both craftsmanship and conviviality.
To Summer Triple Tea
Triple Tea threads green tea, black tea and oolong through aromatic woods and a touch of brown sugar. The composition shifts from brisk herbal clarity to a more toasted warmth, echoing the layered character of oolong itself. It is a study in progression, with tea acting as a steady through line.
Nishane Wulóng Chá
Nishane’s Wulóng Chá has become a modern reference for tea based freshness. Sparkling citrus opens the scent before oolong and nutmeg introduce subtle depth, supported by fig and musk. Its successor, Wulóng Chá X, softens the structure with magnolia and green tea, creating a smoother, more rounded interpretation. In both, oolong provides texture and lift without sharpness.
