The upcoming A/W trends, from brands such as Hermes and Givenchy, have been reconstructed with a fresh sense of aesthetic that emphasizes fluidity and formality.
HERMES
The FW 23/24 Menswear collection presented on the runway of Paris Fashion Week in January was strange for everyone. Designers leading their fashion houses have taken a new approach, from sharply defined silhouettes to layered combinations. The Paris Fashion Week A/W 23 kicked off with the return of Saint Laurent, followed by a historical moment for Louis Vuitton, and as the sublimation of the end of the week, a kind of eternal and innovative harmony rhyme awakes Hermes.
Highlights from the runway at Paris Fashion Week A/W 23
HERMES
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Infinite vitality. Creative director Véronique Nichanian yielded an unusually brilliant touch on leather for its menswear A/W 23 collection, which evokes resonance in purposeful occasions. The house enriched a futuristic pragmatic of men’s style, preserving the attitude of constant elegance and comfort. In the collection, the silhouette is outlined, Croisette accessories are cunning, and hues are muted along with skillful craftsmanship.
LOEWE
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Described as “a reductionist act” by Jonathan Anderson, the F/ W 23 menswear collection highlights silhouettes and shapes present from trench coats to slim suits. One of the standout pieces – the angel wings, is a nod to early Renaissance paintings and the work of Julien Nguyen. In non-traditional ways, the collection is a combination of avant-garde sculpture and streamlined cuts.
DIOR HOMME
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Regeneration and revival. Dior Winter 23/24 Menswear Collection was co-opted from the SS 1958 collection, where Yves Saint Laurent presented his debut collection for Dior, centralized flux and fluidity. It is also a reflection of the dynamism sought by Yves Saint Laurent with his ascent to the helm of Dior at age 21. An echo of modern simplification, this winter collection is permeated by a mixture of formal and casual, with British tailoring traditions and materials meeting haute tailleur.
SAINT LAURENT
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A black aesthetic. Drawn up by designer Anthony Vaccarello, the men’s winter 23 collection took inspiration along the street in the 1950s. The designer delivers a unique dialogue of gender fluidity this season that is both bold and sophisticated. Indeed, the collection is characterized by refined, elegant designs and thorough details. Destined to be extraordinary, the slender silhouette and slim waistline complement each part of the look.
GIVENCHY
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Cohesion and magnetic. A collection of fine black suits and a mixture of styles crafted by Matthew M. Williams while maintaining a tight silhouette. Some contemporary pieces are blended in classic details. The designer took a distinctive approach to challenge archaic dress codes through customization. Featuring workwear to casualwear, William expresses his passion for the development of fabric treatments, traditions, and wardrobe archetypes.
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