Virginie Viard Debuts First Solo Chanel Collection

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Virginie Viard worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel for over 30 years, but today marked her first solo collection for the house since Lagerfeld’s passing in February. Presenting the brand’s Cruise 2020 show in Paris, Viard ushered in the next era of Chanel while staying true to Karl’s vision.

Virginie Viard taking her final bow at Chanel’s Cruise 2020 show today.
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THE THEME

Throughout his tenure at Chanel, Lagerfeld became known for his over-the-top runway sets and themes—from airports to supermarkets and beaches. For Cruise 2020, the fashion house staged its runway in a Beaux-Arts style train station—with models walking on the train platform alongside the tracks. The show was held in Chanel’s go-to Paris venue, the Grand Palais. And according to the brand, its train station set symbolized “the promise of an adventure.”

Destination CHANEL — the House chose to reveal its #CHANELCruise collection in a Beaux-Arts style train station. Like the promise of an adventure, the Grand Palais is transformed with railroad tracks over which one can picture trains setting off for sunny destinations. pic.twitter.com/TPUWH74S8F

— CHANEL (@CHANEL) May 3, 2019

Models walking in Chanel’s Cruise 2020 show.
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THE COLLECTION

With a total of 79 runway looks, Viard’s first solo collection included fresh takes on Chanel signatures like tweed and suiting—staying true to both Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld’s aesthetics. But in this new era of Chanel, femininity appears more prominent and was played up with a series of bows adorning blouses, belts, and dresses.

A tweed skirt suit and white bow top on Chanel’s Cruise 2020 runway. STEPHANE CARDINALE – CORBIS GETTY IMAGES

Several looks paid nod to the ’80s—from bright colored jackets to Chanel logo pants and boxy tweed blazers.

A series of bright jackets on Chanel’s Cruise 2020 runway.
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For the woman heading to the French Riviera, a series of white pants, colorful striped sweaters, and a Jackie O-inspired bandana made appearances.

Jackie O-esque bandanas and vacation ready white shorts were key in Chanel’s Resort collection.
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Pastels and poplins ruled another group of looks on the runway—ranging from feminine suiting to ethereal print dresses.

A range of lilac and blue pastels walking the Chanel Cruise runway.
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A checked ruffle dress and tweed Chanel backpack on the Cruise 2020 runway.
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Viard concluded with a series of looks done in the fashion house’s classic white and black color palette. A range of 3-D floral applique dresses closed the show—acting as the real standouts of the collection.

One of Chanel’s final floral applique dresses in the Cruise 2020 collection.
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A black and white Chanel look featuring sheer overlay, layered gold chain necklaces, and white boots.
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THE BAGS

And as always, it was all eyes on the new range of Chanel bags to debut. Viard introduced new elements to classic bags—like a mini hoop handle done on the classic quilt bag.

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Belt bags remained a staple this season—with new tiny iterations and the introduction of a sportier double harness bag.

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A tweed Chanel backpack featuring three leather pouches down the front also stood out from the pack.

Chanel’s new tweed and triple bag backpack.
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And of course, there were plenty of new bright and colorful takes on the house’s signature styles.

A colorful chained Chanel bag stands out on the Cruise 2020 runway.
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THE FRONT ROW

Many of Chanel’s signature crowd attended the show—including Keira Knightley (who revealed her pregnancy), Lily Rose Depp, Vanessa Paradis, Caroline de Maigret, and Claudia Schiffer. Ali MacGraw, who stars in Chanel’s latest watch campaign at 80 years old, was also notably in attendance.