Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Autumn Winter 2023 presentation heralds a return to timeless classics.

At the dimly illuminated Dior Autumn Winter 2023 presentation, works of art by Portugese artist, Joana Vasconcelos, brought us to a vivid world of prolific organic forms that loomed and branched out over the showspace. Made from fabric, lace, embroidery and crochet compositions, the monumental floral installation, titled “Valkyrie Miss Dior”, paid tribute to Monsieur Dior’s sister, Catherine Dior (the original “Miss Dior”), who Vasconcelos likened to a Valkyrie.

This season, Chiuri explores the world of the ’50s centred around the heritage of the French Maison. Pivotal to this, are three extraordinary women: Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco, who emulated the quintessential French style and spirit from Dior’s defining point in history. Inspired by their independent spirit, Chiuri put forth a collection that embodied “the very signature of femininity that goes against the grain. Rebellious. At once strong and fragile”. The first look set the tone for the show: an unassuming buttoned white shirt paired with a minimalist black midi skirt. This was followed by a wrinkled dress that offered polished insouciance; nipped at the waist for good measure.

It turns out the wrinkled creases were deliberate, the effect of which was produced using extremely fine stainless steel threads. This gave the clothes the feeling of being lived in, and moulded effortlessly to the contours and identity of the wearer—a memory if you so wish to call it that. “This kind of material, in some ways, also allows one to be able to mould the dress on the body. So it’s no longer the defined Dior line, but instead a softer line that changes according to the person who wears it, how they want to wear it,” said Chiuri of the innovative fabric. Not that the “Dior line” was nowhere to be seen. In fact, on the runway, contemporary definitions of the New Look silhouette were reimagined in abundance, albeit with a softer touch that echoed Chiuri’s vision of the Dior woman today.

House staples such as the Bar jacket, trench coats, crisp shirts and pleated skirts were ever-present throughout the predominantly black collection. These were punctuated with bursts of jewel-toned hues that transpired as dégradé knits, graphic checks, and feminine floral blooms—another nod to Catherine Dior.  To note, archival 1950s warp-print florals were omnipresent, scattered vividly across dresses and skirts that evoked the silhouette and allure of the ’50s. Elsewhere, other quintessential Dior prints including the emblematic Houndstooth and the iconic Mizza print underscored the Maison’s rich heritage.

Handwoven raffia floral crowns, echoing the spirit of Catherine Dior and of the mythical Valkyries, complete the powerful female persona at the Dior Autumn Winter 2023 show.

Below, our favourite looks from the show.

Top 15 Looks