Anthony Vaccarello presents a series of sinuous looks for Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2023 runway show.
Anthony Vaccarello is on a roll and there appears to be no sign of stopping him. This Spring/Summer 2023 season, the Creative Director of Saint Laurent unleashed a series of sinuous tubular looks that perpetuated the quintessential Yves Saint Laurent aesthetic. The starting point for his inspiration takes us to the world of Martha Graham dressed in a tubular sheath for her iconic solo dance choreography, Lamentation, in 1930.
The visual impact of the dance and singular garment caused a ripple that cascaded far beyond the world of dance and transcended the unforgiving grip of time. This was evident, in particular, in numerous creations by Yves Saint Laurent who was inspired by this unique connection between identity, fabric and movement.
Fast forward to the present, these series of events “provided a pivotal point of reference” for Vaccarello who churned out a seamless collection steeped in “radical fluidity”. Floor-length dresses that fluttered and brushed the runway ever so lightly dictated the collection, teasing mesmerised guests with confident languid movements. Here, the elongated silhouette presented last season is fine-tuned in opulent muted colours, plush silk jersey knits and elegant slinky hoods that call to mind Yves’ hooded “capuche” pieces from the mid-’80s.
These were complemented with equally lanky masculine outerwear—note the luxurious wool coats with strong shoulders and buttery leather pieces that evoke strength and empowerment—and minimalist statement accessories that left a lasting impression. Meanwhile, the essence of a woman is further underscored through bare traces of flesh that delighted in the columnar silhouette of sheer fabric and technical draped pieces that revealed just the right amount of skin in all the right places. Elsewhere, pajama-inspired satin looks lent a relaxed yet sophisticated flair to the impeccable collection steeped in timeless elegance.
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All images and video courtesy.
This article originally appeared in Harper’s BAZAAR Malaysia March 2023 issue.
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