Paris Fashion Week has hit high octane. With scintillating shows from Loewe, Dior, Rick Owens and Isabel Marant. The City of Light is abuzz with new ideas, silhouettes, and accessories that have given showgoers plenty to talk about in taxi rides from the Cour Carrée of the Louvre to the Trocadéro. Also a running theme, pop culture has ruled Paris Fashion Week with the likes of Kanye West and Kris Jenner sightings at Balmain, where a bevy of Victoria’s Secret models took to the runway. The humdrum of #PFW FALL 2016 marches on with BAZAAR’s best selections from our most coveted designers of the fashion realm.
Dresses, blouses and minis came out in men’s wear-inspired checks, plaids and the like, but were then puffed at the shoulder, cinched at the waist and hemmed mid-thigh. And let’s have a moment for those pointy-toed booties which brought a whiff of nostalgia to anyone who loved Duckie from Pretty in Pink. Marant respun them in leopard and zebra with tons of straps.
The coats, in oversized proportions and men’s materials, could work for any mood. here, they were a foil to the party happening. All bets were off. A chunky sweater could be tucked into a patent leather mini detailed with a prom-style bow, while Marant’s signature ruffle-and-lace blouses topped zipped minis, softening a Joan Jett vibe.
Where in the past, a Dior collection was often a momentous, emotional affair, this one offered something practical yet still well-made and at times, downright lovely. The double-breasted coats came out with touches of architectural tailoring to turn them into something more than a basic. The collars were molded and funneled upwards or the lapels peeled backwards to reveal necks and shoulders.
There was a long line of trim and tailored coats that doubled as mini dresses, showing lots of leg and two-tone, pointy-toed boots. Girls walked loaded with earrings and ear cuffs and rings, or with rounded sunglasses. Signature house bags in croc and python were doubled up, reminders that this business is not necessarily driven by the clothes.
Jonathan Anderson timed every element of his fall Loewe show exactly as he wanted it. It was curated, in other words, to the Nth degree, from the gold and Yves Klein-ish blue cube seats to the Lucite ones filled with every day items—one stuffed with disposable ladies razors, others with steel scouring pads or copper pot scrubbers. Anderson was having a Warhol moment that nicely set a stage for his equally thoughtful collection.
There was an air of grownup dressing to this season in the lineup of snug tops and pleated or flowing full skirts—all cut with hanky hems. If this was his canvas, from there, he added in carefully placed jewelry and accessories. Golden discs turned into earrings, chain chokers, arm bands and even details on strappy sandals.
There were so many good ideas here that felt in step with Lanvin while also injecting some newness. The mixes of mixes of men’s checks and animal motifs with all those pale pinky pleats, ruffles and laces, for instance.
There was a lovely segue of pattern and print echoing each other through all the Baroque romantic swirls and florals. If you don’t get your romance through the golden lace blouses, then surely through the burnt velvet skirts with fluted hems.
Lanvin: Close Up