This season, Anthony Vaccarello teases onlookers with a collection that renders clothes “invisible”. Known for his unapologetic rendition of sex appeal, Vaccarello pulls all the stops with a collection that accentuates the female form in a provocative manner. Modesty is nowhere in sight. Instead, see-through garments steal the limelight, taking shape as fitted silk dresses “resembling sheer undergarments” that “simultaneously reveal and shroud the women wearing them”. Transparency, an everlasting code at Saint Laurent, is constructively dissected and reimagined as garment and skin intertwine effortlessly to envelope and outline the silhouette.

Models walk the runway in translucent fabric that draped and caressed the body in ephemeral lightness. Pussy bow blouses, halter necks, pencil skirts and taut dresses leave little to the imagination, nipped at the waist with belts that heighten the illusion of purity and propriety even further. The notion of lightness and nakedness trail along as delicate coats made from marabou feathers, are carried effortlessly on the arms of the models. Colours are powdery and light, emulating a nude make-up palette with touches of burgundy and blue. Occasionally, fluid suits and slinky peacoats suggest a hint of humility, but to no avail. Suits project an air of bold sensuality with plunging necklines that reveal traces of skin, while glossy, sculptural outerwear evoke strength and confidence.

Left: Fluid double- breasted suit jacket in silk crepe; fluid suit pants in silk crepe; and square pyramid earrings in resin and metal, all from SAINT LAURENT.

Right: Fluid double-breasted suit jacket in silk crepe; fluid suit pants in silk crepe; cabochon & pyramid pendant earrings in resin and metal; Aimee 75 slingback in crepe satin; and Voltaire top handle in box Saint Laurent, all from SAINT LAURENT.

Left: Long sleeve garter top in silk satin; motorcycle buckle belt in vegetal leather ; blossom earrings in resin and metal; high waist undergarment in jersey; La Scandale 110 wedge sandal in patent leather ; and mocha tights, all from SAINT LAURENT.

Right: Long sleeve gar ter top in silk satin; motorcycle buckle belt in vegetal leather; cabochon & pyramid pendant earrings in resin and metal; and high waist undergarment in jersey, all from SAINT LAURENT.

Left: Royal blue turtleneck sweater in cashmere; motorcycle buckle belt in vegetal leather ; blossom earrings in resin and metal; diamond 110 slingback with rhinestone in crepe satin; black tights; and high waist undergarment in jersey, all from SAINT LAURENT.

Right: Khaki collared coat; khaki transparent midi skirt; blossom earrings in resin and metal; black tights; and high waist undergarment in jersey, all from SAINT LAURENT.

Left: Khaki collared coat; khaki transparent midi skirt; blossom earrings in resin and metal; La Scandale 110 sandal in patent leather ; black tights; and high waist undergarment in jersey, all from SAINT LAURENT.

Right: Bordeaux long sleeve top with diagonal drape and lavalliere in jersey; bordeaux fluid skirt in silk chiffon; mid-length skirt in fine viscose; thin belt with rounded oval buckle in smooth leather ; and blossom earrings in resin and metal, all from SAINT LAURENT.

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This article first appeared in Harper’s BAZAAR Malaysia October 2024 issue.

The October ’24 issue is out now on newsstands and on emag.bizofre.com

On the cover, all clothes and accessories by @ysl.

Photographer: @edmundlcy
Videographer: @jbombxox & Simon Tan
Senior Fashion Director & styling: @aiaicapitaine
Senior Art Director: @khainickey
Make-Up: @khirkhalid
Hair: @ckay_liao
Assistants: @ninahasnul @syazbohar @kavishaa_05 & Zane Chang
Model: Acacia @wumodels