The vast and serene show space of the Loewe show in Paris showed no signs of what was to come from Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection. As the first model ascended the single staircase and walked right into the middle of the room in the first look – a long black dress with a boxy protrusion mid-waist – followed by another model in a similar dress – this time, an angular protrusion was seen on the right shoulder and left hip – it dawned upon us that we were in for a spectacular visual experience.
This season, Anderson looks to Italian Mannerist painter, Pontormo, from the Renaissance period for inspiration. As stated in the show notes, the entire collection is “Neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical”. Unconventional in every sense, the clothes explored notions of draping, sculpting and play on colours by way of torsions, diversions and distortions.
Every look was like a walking work of art. Aside from the above-mentioned protruding long dresses, there was the usage of metal plates, which were integrated into coats and dresses. Capes were designed like wings and several dresses were made with 3D metal wire elements and resin torso moulds. In addition, there was a lot of draping displayed – on the head as scarves, around the body as tops and even on pants. Seemingly out of place against the remarkable fabrics and materials was the usage of denim, however, it too was given an artistic design twist to add to the whimsy of the entire collection.
Our favourite details were in the shoes. Soap bars, candles, eggs, nail polish and a rose substituted the regular heel adding charm and spontaneity to the collection. Meanwhile, bags include two very comfy-looking Goya long clutch and Flamenco in teddy bear fabric. See the whole collection for yourself here.