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MILAN FASHION WEEK HIGHLIGHTS

MISSONI SPRING/SUMMER ’16

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Missoni Spring/Summer ’16

Angela Missoni had everyone seeing stripes—or more of them, at least—at her Spring Missoni collection. As Milan has taken to this pattern in particular, this bodes well for a house that kind of built its reputation on variations of the line: zig zag, optical, thisaway, thataway, up-down… The runway here was sporty, with striped knits in every color (though heavy on a Yves Klein-ish blue) popping up in collared shirts, caftans and lodes of maillots and bikinis. Even the shoes looked striped in their caged sandal construct.

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Missoni Spring/Summer ’16

Otherwise girls walked in high-top sneakers (another nod to America) and everything from body con long columns to vertically-striped and pleated dresses—also seen a lot this week. Missoni could have boxed herself into a very small, tight corner by sticking to a striped idea within her already knit world. But there was a deep bench of looks here for clients who have different needs, are of different ages and figures. Leave the maillots for the hardbodies and the caftans for the shy types, Missoni’s message was. There’s even polos and loose pants for the sporty girl who idolizes that outdoorsy Hepburn vibe. Albeit a colorful striped one.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING/SUMMER ’16

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Ferragamo Spring/Summer ’16

When Massimiliano Giornetti does peasant for Salvatore Ferragamo you can expect it won’t be the usual hippie-sprite fare. No, those references will be smartly veiled and folded into the House’s uber refined aesthetic. So his feathered dresses and skirts for example are done in soothing olives and black, in trim ladylike silhouettes and paired with sandals that tie up the ankle and sport an athletic-inflected sole. Intarsia striped knit dresses with tiny frills came out, a subtle nod to Seventies chic. Meanwhile ruffles and tiers in varying sizes cropped up on monotone chiffon dresses, cotton strapless maxis and in the exaggerated bodices of strappy tops worn with either black leather pants or crisp white knee-length shorts.

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Ferragamo Spring/Summer ’16

 Black was a dominating color here—mixed in with olives, mustards and reds—softened by the bohemian nature of how voluminous pleated capes tied or cropped pants with slit details also tied mid-calf or the way accordion pleated dresses moved freely. There were a ton of capes, mostly knit and worn layered over tonal ribbed knit dresses and skirts. Everything was long and longer, hitting at the ankle to show off the ankle-strap shoes and gladiator sandals. Striped dresses hit a perfect summer note but stayed firmly within the realm of the elegant in relaxed A-line shapes and lovely colors

DOLCE & GABBANA SPRING/SUMMER ’16

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Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer ’16

Body con dresses came out in black lace and ruched chiffon, but were accented with vibrant red-based florals or cheeky metallic embroidered fruit. The widow has gone glamorously sexy for Spring. The sexier fare balanced nicely with both relaxed pajamas in big, bright florals or tile prints, and youthful day dresses with humorous prints tapping into various scenes from around the country. Like girls on the beach by an Italian ice cart, renderings of famous landmarks and the like. But Italy is not just about bombshells, virgins and matriarchs. It’s always been a destination for well-heeled tourists seeking art, culture and food.

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Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer ’16

Which explains the group of striped Mandarin-collared dresses and tunics (which were paired with delightful colorful pompom sandals) worn by models carrying shopping bags—because right now that culture-loving day tripper is also Dolce’s biggest client. Fit and flare shapes came out in bra-and-skirt or charming day dresses, all done in colorful scarf prints and accessorized with adorable headbands (were those red baubles a nod to tomatoes?), embellished shoes and a massive offering of bags. And it culminated in a parade of girls in sheaths done in bright postcard prints for what seemed like every city and coastal resort town in Italy. Viva Italia!

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Prada Spring/Summer ’16

The drop-waist dresses were equally mix-and-match, worn over intarsia sweaters. She played with print scales and added lace and sequined embellishments to shoulders that picked up on bauble details on the shoes. And these girls were done up. As in hair slicked back into tight buns and lips lacquered a demonstrative gold purposefully meant to compete withe brightness of the clothes. Balls dangled from drop earrings and topped flat point-toed strappy shoes. And nearly every girl exited with a bag (perhaps in direct response to less-than-positive earnings reports earlier this month). Prada’s final grouping felt like old-school Prada. Super quirky and over-the-top while toeing the line with ladylike strictures: the tailored car coat, the pencil skirt, the silky blouse and the great shoe. Just here, they were shiny, covered in pailettes and accented with netting for good measure.