It’s one thing to stage a runway show at a famed UNESCO building in Paris, it’s quite another to transform a show space using artistic simulation into the iconic London gallery Signals, which pioneered kinetic art in the ’60s. Complemented by floating rotating ceramics by Ryoji Koie and spinning car wash brushes by Lara Favaretto, the concept of movement was explored this Spring/Summer ’19, as evident in the collection’s fluid silhouettes and wandering accents. Think blue satin pyjamas paired with a feather vest that moved against a subtle breeze; or finely knit fishermen sweaters worn with heavily fringed accessories, like the Gate bag, but this time, thatched in straw. It was here that creative director Jonathan Anderson harked back to raw materials typical to the contemporary Brutalist hedonism art movement, as seen in diaphanous linens and exotic leathers, but elevated in an inky, aquarelle palette. Elsewhere, exotic leathers were transformed into rugged whipcord collars, which offset folksy crocheting, patchwork, and puffy dresses in summertime poplin and broderie anglaise. Free-spirited and nomadic, for the 21st century.