Hong Kong's gleaming skyscrapers, Shanghai's colonial-era heritage buildings and Beijing's hundred-year-old narrow hutong alleys. Travelling through China often feels like travelling through time, and the journey from one century to the next can usually be done by turning around the corner.
From authentic bakeries to upscale fish restaurants and forbidden cities flanked by modern art, here's how to experience China's ancient traditions alongside modern adventures.
SHANGHAI
Shanghai Museum
It’s a good idea to arrive early at Shanghai Museum. Not because it gets crowded – it’s too big for that – but because you’ll need energy to conquer the place. When the Nationalists fled for Taiwan in 1949, they brought much of China’s most treasured art with them, but at this museum, you’ll find the best of what’s left. Dedicate your time to one section unless you’re planning to spend all day (or week) at the museum. The Ming dynasty paintings of fog-covered mountains, ancient pagodas, peaceful riverbeds and people in traditional costumes are especially beautiful.
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Growing local fashion scene
For something more contemporary, head to Uma Wang’s shop in Xintiandi. The Chinese designer shows in Paris and is celebrated by fashionistas worldwide – but nowhere as much as in Shanghai, where she studied. Like many of the city’s best boutiques, her flagship store is located close to the Xintiandi station in the heart of the French Concession.
Fashion and food in the former French Concession
During the colonial era, the territory was ceded to the French and Chinese citizens were not allowed to linger in the area. Luckily, the neighbourhood’s dark history has paved the way for a brighter present and its tree-lined boulevards, beautiful villas and jumble of charming cafes will make you want to stay all day. Get lunch at one of the street food vendors selling steaming hot pork buns or head to Lost Heaven for Yunnan food in a dimly-lit dining room. Stroll through Fuxing Park to walk off the lunch; you’ll likely be walking next to elderly Chinese gentlemen promenading with precious birds in gilded cases and couples learning to dance the tango.
Antiques and kitsch at Dongtai Road
Whether you’re on the lookout for a Chinese vase, Mao-era propaganda posters, abandoned art-deco pieces from the city’s history or something made out of plastic, you’ll find it at Dongtai Road, a street filled with antique vendors and curio shops. Be aware that much of what seems old might be factory-produced products with fake patina. But don’t let that hold you back; a lot of what you can find is still beautiful, funny or a combination of both.
Peninsula Hotels
Drinks at The Bund
Shanghai’s riverfront boardwalk is touristy, pricey and chaotic – which is why it’s best to experience it from above. Head to the rooftop terrace of The Peninsula Shanghai, one of the many landmark hotels lining the riverfront. During the day, The Peninsula Academy can help you experience the city by arranging a visit to a fashion designer from Shanghai or a guided tour through Shanghai’s Chinese art scene or the hotel’s own collection.
At night, you can get a different experience of the city by ordering a drink at the terrace and getting a seat as close to the river as possible. From here, you can watch the lit-up colonial-era heritage buildings lining one side of the river and the gleaming, futuristic skyscrapers dominating the other. Shanghai, like Hong Kong and Beijing, is the epitome of China; so much history, so much future.
