Text by Sanjeeva Suresh. Images: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.
The Prada Autumn/Winter ’22 menswear collection redefines the concept of workwear and corporate uniform. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada clearly have their finger on the pulse of today’s pop-culture zeitgeist. Images of Kyle MacLachlan, Jeff Goldblum, Thomas Brodie-Sangster and Asa Butterfield have already made the rounds on social media. For Prada, it wasn’t just about featuring the hottest celeb of the season, it was about who these men are and what they each represent. From young Netflix stars to Hollywood heavyweights. Once you get past the initial awe of seeing a slew of celebrities walk down Prada runway, you realise the collection is incredibly dynamic.
Actor Kyle MacLachlan opens the Prada Autumn//Winter 2022-2023 fashion show.
Pieces were restraint, but not minimalistic, looks were buttoned up but not overly serious. You see the modernity and futuristic appeal of Raf Simons’ vision blend seamlessly with Miuccia Prada’s reverence for exquisite tailoring and luxurious fabrics. Deep blue oversized trench coats, nipped in the waist are quickly followed up by patent leather jumpsuits in mustard and lime green. There was a beautiful juxtaposition of baggy, loose-fitting trousers with immaculately sharp shoulders and clean silhouettes. Loose fabric lay gathered at the upper of almost every model’s leather loafers, marking the end of an era where men would painstakingly measure the hem of their trouser leg to fit just right.
This by no means marks the end of tailoring altogether though, a stand-out from the collection was the inclusion of heavy overcoats finished with furry mohair details at the hem and sleeves. Tackling the notion of workwear, Prada showcased a range of white and blue-collar archetypes. We saw the suited-up corporate executive, the fresh-faced chap; with a turtleneck and backpack in tow, the daring entrepreneur; styled in abstract prints with neon hues of orange and yellow. Lightweight coveralls were a clear ode to the idea of activity and motion.
Jeff Goldblum closes the Prada Autumn/Winter 2022-2023 showcase.
It was no coincidence that Jeff Goldblum was chosen to end the show. As the 69-year-old silver screen legend sauntered down the runway, he once again encapsulated the whole narrative of the collection – what is workwear, and is it inherently masculine? As far as the Prada collection goes, the answer is a zestful display that culminates with a resounding "No."
