Dior Haute saw plastic opera coats, bold geometric prints, and a sequinned jumpsuit – clearly Raf Simons was inspired by David Bowie. Even for finely pleated ballgown skirts, Bowie prevailed in the shiny, multicoloured boots. Chanel Haute Couture heralded the conversion of the Grand Palais into a giant greenhouse filled with flowering plants, Karl Lagerfeld showed a pretty collection that featured heavily on embellishment. Tunics were embroidered with blossoms while skirts were beaded and sequinned with more petals in tulle, leather, and organza. Armani Privé Haute Couture was a moment for the designer who showed his 10th Armani Privé collection. The inimitable Giorgio Armani picked the lush bamboo as his key motif of the season, perhaps for its significance in Asian culture. There were several Japanese influences, too, from the large obi belts to the Zen-like serenity of the aesthetic. Atelier Versace Haute Couture spoke to sensuality as no one does sexy the way Donatella Versace does, and for Haute Couture, she sent out dresses with curvy lines – all the better to celebrate womanly curves. Cuts veered off and around the shoulder, dipped deep into the cleavage, or snaked sexily across the body. Giambattista Valli Haute Couture was a tale of opposites, featuring tunics worn with trousers showing up alongside floral-printed column gowns. These eventually gave way to the showstopping frothy tulle fantasies that Valli’s best known for. The muses for this collection? An unlikely pairing of Coco Chanel and Janis Joplin. La Perla Atelier Collection was somewhat unprecedented as the lingerie brand showed a one-off collection in Paris, debuting its Atelier Collection, with more than just underwear. Sportswear influence was evident in the mesh cropped tops and cycling pants, but edged with no less than Leavers lace.