It was a full house at Burberry’s Autumn/Winter ’23 show venue in London. Held at Kennington Park, excitement and anticipation over Daniel Lee’s first collection for the heritage House was apparent and for his debut collection, Lee did not disappoint. The British designer took to the challenge at hand like a duck to water and delivered a collection that celebrated the very essence of British roots and culture. The opening two looks signalled a change in the direction of the House’s vision, as did the graphic swan print with the cheeky slogan “The Winds of Change”. The signature trench coat was no longer distinguishable, replaced instead with an oversized Gabardine—a nod to the cold British outdoors—that had exaggerated proportions and faux-fur trimmed lapels for good measure. Practical and stylish? Yes, please. And then there were cosy hot water flannels adorned with Lee’s rendition of the heritage check—a hint of what’s to come in the looks that followed.

Out came diagonal checks splashed across knitwear, dresses, scarves, skirts and trousers in waves of vibrant colours that ranged from deep reds to earthy browns and a prominent new house colour dubbed knight blue. The check was in fact inspired by a check lining from an archive trench coat from the eighties, and Lee’s journey into the House’s archive did not stop there. Playful duck prints on the runway were also inspired by an archive womenswear catalogue that featured a hand-painted duck on its cover and an ad campaign aptly titled “Weather for Ducks”. It was a delightful way of bringing colour into the heritage brand whilst paying homage to the moody British weather. And let’s not forget the emblematic Equestrian Knight Design (EKD) and Burberry logo that were also reimagined and emblazoned proudly on the outside of garments. Fun fact, the EKD was sourced from a public competition in 1901.

Burberry | Tyrone Lebon

Other British references transpired as roses—England’s national flower—that gave a romantic edge to the punkish collection. The English rose bloomed ferociously in various patterns, graphic prints and textures throughout the collection, providing femininity and contrast to the numerous eclectic identities that walked the runway—another nod to Britishness, its diversity and individuality. Accessories-wise, Lee wasted no time introducing new It-bags and shoes that again, paid tribute to the House’s equestrian heritage and great British landscape. The Knight bag, in particular, caught our attention with its chic and relaxed silhouette that offered versatility. As did the structured Rocking Horse bag that was defined by its sleek curved lines. In true form, Lee worked the codes of the House into prominent details that gave the accessories an identity of their own. Note the heroic Horse clip inspired by the EKD on the Knight bag, and the subtle lowercase ‘b’ closure that paid homage to the brand’s initials … the list goes on. Lee is known for reviving brands in unexpected and exciting ways through his thorough understanding and exploration of the brand’s unique DNA. And at Burberry, he did just that; by honouring the heritage House with a fashionably appealing collection that was rooted in the identity of Britishness.

Our favourite looks from the show.