Designers today approach fashion from greatly varied points of view. Some, like Valentino’s Roman goddesses or Gucci’s dreamy eccentrics were borne of a romantic vision. Others like Nicolas Ghesquière and Phoebe Philo are champions of essentials grounded in reality, while some create fashion that only fully come alive on the dancefloor. BAZAAR edits the season’s biggest collections according to the processes of these great thinkers.